Grand Valley 300 km
(3,200) 9.88 -- 324 hp
(3,500) 9.43 -- 371 hp
(2,300) 9.27 -- 248 hp
(3,200) 10.09 -- 317 hp
Like the A-spec version, there are four classes of cars I've defined for B-spec. They appear below
in the Opponents section. Choose which class you'd like to see B-spec race against, do the math, then find a grid to compete
Getting an oil change or engine rebuild is optional for this race. See Strategy section below.
The current Class 2 car I used is a 2007 Mustang, which lost (2nd place against the Honda S2000 of Grid 25). It had handling
issues, and I suspect a better-handling car would not need 371 hp.
"A grueling race that requires total concentration" is the caption for this first enduro. Which makes me chuckle.
Multiple drivers can be entered here, whereas during the A-spec version, we often do the entire thing ourselves. If we had
the stamina of B-spec drivers, commuting to work would require an immediate nap after we get there.
But note that ALL drivers show up to the GV300 km. As each driver takes a break, and are sitting in the pits, they
can be monitored as they regain Strength and Mental Strength. Do this by clicking on the box showing whoever
the current driver is.
Now, one interesting thing: A-spec only required one pit stop, and if more than one got
taken, that usually meant bad things. But B-spec will be needing an average of three. The weakest
link here will not be tires or fuel though, in most cases it will be drivers! Pit stops are needed because those drivers
really start to perform poorly as their Strength and Mental Strength wear out.
Fuel & Pitstops -- All kinds of strategy can be employed here, like not taking any fuel
at all during that first stop. Fuel-efficient types might not need any until the third stop, matter of fact. If your B-spec
driver is far behind the leaders (and it probably will be), it's possible to cut some time just by not taking any
fuel, because everyone else will be forced to fill their tanks, even if they don't need to.
During latter laps, other crews will adapt this strategy as well, so that they'll only put a few liters in if they're
really needed, just like the crews during Super GT, which is interesting.
On the other hand, if your driver gets way too far ahead of everyone else (and this could happen during the
latter part of this race, if the leaders start driving cold) it's possible to equip hard or medium tires to bring back
Oil changes and engine rebuilds -- These are optional, your car won't always need to get these services.
Performing either will usually cause an easy boost of power of course, which might be good for getting to the
front early. But as oil breaks down, the car's engine will certainly lose power.
Sometimes this can be okay. The latter half of the 300 km can sometimes be rather dull. The leaders end
up nowhere near each other, losing inspiration to keep their speed up. In other words, it might be okay if there's a
loss of power, since everybody starts driving cold anyway. On the other hand, sometimes two or more cars will
group together throughout the entire race. And for this sort of situation, it's better to enter a car with its power
already broken down. Makes things more consistent.
Either situation can be a dice-roll. it is hard to predict if the others will drive closely (requiring consistent power)
or not (dull boring race to watch if ours gets to the front with miles to spare).
B-spec races can have it all: action which is non-stop, or no action at all, to the point that a watching Barney
Miller rerun from 1982 sounds like a great idea. The GV 300km has a bit of both: action, and "what else is on TV?". Sometimes
the entire field of cars will stretch away from each other, GT4-style. But then they'll all catch up to one another,
and things will be fun to watch again.
The class system from A-spec can still be referred to here, and the same list of grids seen during A-spec is copy/pasted
by PD for B-spec. Here is that page again
. Scroll down to where it says "I have listed the first 30 grids..."
or simply ctrl + F the word "grid".
And here is the list of classes I've come up with. Again, they do reflect some similar results others at GT Planet have
also determined. Note that all posted lap times from B-spec drivers will be several seconds slower than those who drove A-spec.
I have also posted the very first lap that I observed each car pulling in for a pit stop.
Honda NSX Type R '02--------------- 15
Honda NSX Type R '92--------------- ??
Honda NSX '90 ---------------
Toyota MR2 GT-S '97---------------
'06 Honda S2000 ----------------------- 15 2:15.412
Mazda RX-7 Spirit R Type
A------- 14 2:16.465
Impreza Sedan WRX spec C '04----- 14
Nissan Fairlady Z Z34 '08----------
Subaru Impreza WRX STi (18i...) '07 14
* The "18i" Subaru above does not appear on GTSail's lists, but I observed it keeping up with both NSX
cars during initial laps, so it should at least go into Class 2.
Skyline GTR R34 '00-------- 16 2:16.911
Mazda RX-8 Type S '07-----------
RX-7 Type RS '98------------ 16 2:17.279
Impreza Sedan WRX STi Vers VI '99 14 2:19.024
Sub Impreza Coupe WRX typeR STi--- 2:18.094
Impreza Coupe 22B-STi '98--------- 2:19.421
Fairlady Z Version ST '02----------
Fairlady Z Version S '07-----------
Mits Lancer EVO X GSR PP '07-----
Version S '02-----------
Subaru Impreza Sedan WRX STI '02 (no time observed...this car does not appear in the GTP lists, but it's probably Class
Silvia spec-R Aero--------- 16 2:18.679
Nissan Skyline R33 GTR
'95--------- 16 2:21.461
Nissan Skyline Coupe 350GT--------
Mits Lancer EVO IV GSR '96------- 2:19.332
Sedan WRX '94----------- 16 2:19.658
Nissan 350Z Gran Turismo 4 Ltd '05
Subaru Legacy B4 2.0GT spec.B-----
Fairlady Z 300ZX Ver.S TT 2seater
Toyota Supra RZ '97--------------
Nissan Skyline GTR R32
Mits Lancer EVO IX '05------------
Subaru Legacy B4 2.0GT spec.B '03
Mits Lancer EVO IX GSR '05------- 17 2:20.881
300ZX 2seater Z32 '98------
Nissan 300ZX 2by2 Z32 '98-------- 14 2:20.511
Soarer 430SCV '01--------
GTO Twin Turbo MR '98----------- 2:21.633
25t RS FOUR S '98--
Honda Accord Coupe EX '03-------
Mits GTO Twin Turbo MR '95-------14 2:21.642
Legacy B4 Blitzen '00 ----- 16 2:23.854
Subaru Legacy Touring Wagon------- 16
Toyota Celica GT-FOUR '98---------- 18 2:23.207
Mazdaspeed Atenza '05------------
Infiniti G35 Coupe '06-------------- 2:24.274
Silvia 240RS ----------------14 2:22.289
The lap time each car has listed next to it represents its very fastest observed time around the track. In reality,
each car will not be as quick, especially once they're away from traffic.
Proven grids are as follows:
Class 1: Grid #4
Class 2: Grid #25
Class 3: Grid #1, Grid #11, Grid #12
Grid 1 has two cars in Class 3, but sometimes the lesser Nissan Silvia Spec R Aero keeps up with these faster cars.
Grid 12 (Class 3) has a Honda S2000, which is Class 2 among three Class 3s. During B-spec this won't matter as much
Grid 25 (Class 2) is particularly tough. Its top cars tend to stick together through most of the race.
All of the tips I'm recommending (restricted power, nerfed pit-stops, searching for the right grid) are efforts
to make these races as exciting as possible, but sometimes we'll still will up with a race in which our driver gets far into
the lead, and then there's no more action. One of the things GT4 did right was it allowed the player to fast-forward
B-spec races, and unfortunately this can't be done anymore, once that action starts to waver.
Guess it's time for Barney Miller after all.
Hard, soft, or medium sport tires *(note that the AI always uses softs)
Fixed or height-adjustable sport suspension (some great handlers can go stock)
Full-customized Suspension for those handling disaster autos!
Factory or close-ratio gearing (rarely will a need for full-custom gears be needed)
Single-plate clutch, one of the flywheels + carbon driveshaft (as
Limited-slip for some with tricky traction, especially some front-drives.
'03 BMW M3 CSL
(3,200, Class 1)
'07 Ford Mustang GT Coupe (3,500, Class
'00 Volkswagen Beetle 2.0 (2,300, Class
03 Subaru Legacy Touring Wagon 2.0GT (3,200, Class 3)
Roadster 4-Hour Endurance
16.13 -- 124 hp
(2,500) 17.75 -- 141hp
Unlike A-spec, it doesn't matter who starts where for B-spec. NB-generation
Roadsters (the ones which have their headlamps showing) are faster than the 'bathtub' NA-style cars, but this race is so long,
there's plenty of time to catch up if we seem like we're lagging.
My only rule for the B-spec version of this race is to include as many NBs as you can! This way, challenge
is at least guaranteed.
changes or engine rebuilds! If you start a zero-mileage Premium car in this race, give it 7 horsepower less than
recommended. The car will make up this power as its engine breaks in.
11/06/17: both ratios above have been lowered slightly.
Here it is, the first really
long B-spec race. Those who passed out on the couch during the '80s Cup, Dream Car Championship, and other such events
haven't seen nothing yet.
One of the neat things about
the Roadster Endurance is we can include drivers who aren't very skilled. Yes, we should include some of our better drivers
in this one, but if we have to add somebody who's not as experienced, this is okay. I have noticed that even after our drivers
tire out completely, Strength and Mental Strength completely gone, it is rare they'll make any mistakes. At worst, I've
seen some cars slip their rears a tad. Trips into the grass and grand spinouts simply never happen, probably because
everyone's on soft tires.
thing some of you may notice is that for the B-spec version of this race, we'll finally be using less power! Slightly
less than is needed for A-spec. And the main reason for this is it's all too easy to load up your MX-5's 1.6 or 1.8 liter
with just a little too much, and then next thing we know, our car's in the lead ...
.... with 3 hours, 47 minutes, and 17 seconds to go.
Go ahead and add more power than I'm suggesting if you don't mind a boring, drama-less outing, like Michael Schumacher,
or Junior Johnson, winning .... again. Except at least those guys get faced with challenges, and possible sanctions
for being too good.
I do admit though, that even
with my limitations in place, 4 hours of Miata Madness can still get dull, and here is why.
the typical B-spec scenario: certain cars break away from the pack during those first 30 laps or so, and usually these will
be the NB-style Roadsters. But not ALL NBs will be on the frontlines. Like the A-spec 4-Hour Enduro, usually a couple
of cars will get up there, and begin competing with one another.
I was hoping that maybe this one be different from Grand Valley's 300 km and the Laguna Seca 200. Since all these
cars are basically "the same" to some extent, maybe this will even things out? Also, Tsukuba is such a small track; maybe
B-spec's tendency to slow those drivers who get away from traffic would be minimized, because it's rare that anybody breaks
free of traffic?
This is true to some extent, but as the laps roll
on, it's only those at the front who will be fun to watch. I'm not saying there aren't scuffles and skirmishes going on for
lower positions, but there are no gangs of 4 or 5 cars all vying for the lead deep into the race like I was hoping.
But at least with my power ratios, we will see some action later on in the
race. Usually what'll happen is we won't even see our car in the lead until Lap 50 or so. Our drivers will have to work
for their position, basically. Which is more exciting to watch (imo) than an over-classed 2-seater simply getting up
there during the first 4 laps, and then staying up there unless we forget to tell them to "speed up" once in a while.
Unlike the Grand Valley and
Laguna Seca enduros, the cars in the Roadster 4-Hour will not adopt an "adaptive strategy" for fueling. They
always top up their tanks, which is ridiculous because Miatas, MX-5s, Roadsters, and Eunos Roadsters barely sip any
gas. Therefore, we can easily shave time by not taking any fuel at all, not
until our very last pit stop, perhaps.
On the other
hand, if your driver gets too much of a lead and you want to do something about this, lesser tire types can be forced during
pitstops, if you dare.
Soft Sport Tires
(but show up with a full rack of mediums and hards as well, just in case you want to play "race marshal.")
Fixed Sport Suspension
Single-plate clutch, either flywheel, carbon driveshaft. (We won't be needing
a limited-slip though. Nobody ever loses traction during this race ... PD seems to have tamed their B-spec programming).
No oil change or engine rebuild
'93 Mazda MX-5 Miata
V-Special (2,000 pounds)
'07 Mazda Roadster RS
Laguna Seca 200 Miles
(2,500) 8.30 -- 301 hp
(3,000) 9.41 -- 318 hp
(3,500) 10.54 -- 332 hp
Note that power listed above will guarantee a close race, but this power assumes the fastest cars will
eventually start driving "cold." It can be dangerous if any one of them begins to warm up, then maintains this status
lap after lap. Add 10 horsepower for a higher guarantee of winning.
The above ratios have been calculated with the very best cars and grids available.
Grid #1 has both newer Corvettes and the Camaro SS. In the end, the 2000 Corvette usually
falls behind, while the 2004 Vette and 2010 Camaro won't always run a close race between each other.
Grid #10 is even better, with the '04 Corvette Z06, '10 Camaro SS, and '02 Viper GTS
all present. These three will also fall away from each other at times, but the chances of them driving cold is not as high,
especially as they routinely hit traffic.
Grid # 7 might be a good grid for a slower-paced event. It includes a lot of old muscle
along with the Dodge SRT4 (untested as of now).
The Laguna Seca 200 is similar to the Professional Series Muscle Car Championship, since the exact same
cars which showed up at that race are now here again. The main difference is that strictly American automobiles don't have
to be entered for this enduro. Go ahead and think outside of that box.
Bank accounts also don't have to be emptied for this one, in fact, we're now in a nice profit-zone
with the money-earning. Something in our garage might be able to take this on easily.
Three stops in total. Planning is still necessary though, so here's some advice.
Unlike the A-spec version of this race, it's a good idea to give B-spec drivers something which
is more competent. So no VW Beetles or PT Cruisers! On the other hand, one of the main differences between A and B-spec is
they don't have just one pit stop to base all their decisions on; instead they'll be taking multiple stops, as seen before
at Grand Valley and Tsukuba.
Basically, drivers are the weakest link now. Not tires or fuel consumption.
Notice that the B-spec version of this 200 miler pays far less than our version? There's a reason for
Another difference between A and B-spec is the way those drivers actually drive, and this has a lot to do
with grids. If a grid is chosen with a group of top cars (and so far I have only chosen grids which feature the best), then
these monsters will compete very strongly with one another during opening laps. After that first pit stop though, the drivers
who take their place usually don't go at it with as much verve.
And this is because they usually get into positions which aren't close to one another, and we all know what
happens when they do this, right?
So the bottom line is the Laguna Seca 200's B-spec version is nowhere near as intense as the A-spec version;
don't be fooled during those opening laps, when our driver falls behind. After that first pit stop, it'll now be us that's
way too far ahead, although this assumes we're paying attention.
I have tried to calculate for perfect competitive power, but sometimes the 200 will eventually lose
its passion. For those who want to see something even more competitive, enlist a lesser-skilled driver, and/or put the car
on harder tires for lower lap times.
NO oil change
Hard, Medium, and Soft sport tires
Factory transmission in most cases, for those interested in better fuel economy, which
saves time during the pit stop. Close-ratio units can be used for those with super-tall gears, and full-custom gears
should be reserved for those who can't solve some sort of problem with fixed boxes.
Drivetrain parts as needed. We can use clutch, flywheel, and driveshaft
parts to fine-tune our lap times as we practice. Limited-slips should be reserved for cars with real traction
Fixed or height-adjustable suspension for most. If we're trying
to equip anything better than this to help some loser car compete better, good luck with this!
Brake balancer only for those with super-horrible handling issues (excessive understeer,
for instance) that can help lessen these issues with better braking.
'02 Chrysler Prowler (2,500 pounds)
'99 Subaru Impreza Sport Wagon (3,000 pounds)
'00 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra R (3,500 pounds)
(2,400) 6.31 --
Unlike the A-spec version of this
race, the NSX does not need to be started downfield. We can start them on Pole, or in last place. The only difference here
is that an NSX starting up front will jump far ahead early, while those toward the rear will get stuck in traffic, causing
huge gaps of space between each of these dominators later on.
But generally, they will be the ones to still watch for, even if they sometimes fall far behind.
a look at the power up above. No, you don't need glasses. Yes, I am recommending power which is roughly 100 horses less than
Unlike the A-spec version of the Suzuka
1000km, the B-spec version is mostly about strategy and patience, and entering a suitable car. This car will not need to be
stacked with power though; in fact, doing so will guarantee an ultimately sleepy race for us to watch. Note that power is
very secondary, when it comes to the Suzuka 1000km.
I suspect that most gamers simply never stuck around to watch this one...which is what the "Pit Strategy" button
is for. They could simply enter a car which has roughly the same amount of power as the Super GTs in this event, set
their Pit Strategy a certain way, and then it won't even matter if the driver of this car begins driving "cold," because
now all they had to do maybe monitor some initial laps, watch their driver get to 1st place, and then walk away while changing
But for people who actually want to watch
and pay attention to the action in this race, we'll need something to keep us interested, right? >:)~
The Honda NSX is still our
main opponent, but since this is B-spec, eventually even these aerodynamic monsters will begin to have troubles. This is especially
true once they break away from traffic, and immediately begin driving "cold." From that point on, it's all too easy to keep
goading our driver to keep up the pace. Though the NSX (occasionally another car like a Xanavi Nissan) will still pose
a threat at times, mostly it's the way they begin to 'conserve' their pace that causes them to fall behind.
In a way, it is a shame PD programmed B-spec drivers the way they did. It
almost seems that longer B-spec enduros are meant for the Pit Strategy button, walking away from the game, and changed
As stated above, really what this race comes down to is strategy and patience, not so much horsepower or extensive tuning.
During initial laps, typically we'll see our car stuck in traffic, falling behind the others due to lack of power. But don't
reload! As time goes on, traffic begins to thin. Our car will eventually catch somebody who has begun to drive conservatively,
and has fallen behind the pack. This car gets passed by, and sooner or later, somebody else gets passed by. Then somebody
1). Strategy point #1 is to keep
communication with your driver. Unlike all the other crews who don't seem to do this, it's important to keep telling
our driver to Maintain Pace, Speed Up, or Overtake, or even Slow Down when this command is needed. This is what will
initially help us pass those early slackers.
Then the pit stops begin. B-spec requires more pit stops than A-spec does, since driver fatigue is more of the determining
factor, not tire wear or fuel consumption. We won't always have to take a nearly-full tank like we did during A-spec;
often during that first stop, we can shave time by not taking any fuel at all. As the race continues, eventually
we will need some fuel of course, but we won't always have to take that full tank our crew will automatically recommend.
3). We can also choose to give our driver some
soft tires instead of mediums (which is what the rest of the field will be using). While this seems cheaty, it is also legal,
and sometimes necessary during those early-to-middle laps, since we're using less power. Soft tires don't last as long as
mediums, but we'll never have to worry about this.
4). It is also possible for our more-experienced B-speccers to stay out there a few extra laps, even as their
Strength and Mental Strength go completely dark. This can get risky, but only if our driver is pushing that aggression meter
deep into the red zone. If our driver keeps on the cool-to-middle side of that meter(and we also tell this driver to
"Slow Down" if they're hot, and about to do something stupid), it is possible for an energy-sapped driver to roll some
laps as well.
5). The fifth suggestion with strategy only occurs during races
in which rain is falling. In general, a day with 100% rain will stay at 100%, or at least this is what I've observed
so far. A day which is completely dry will generally stay completely dry. But there are some races which start somewhere
in between 0 and 100%. And there are some cars (like the Cusco Dunlop Subaru I used*) which do well in the wet. In other words,
you can search for grids which feature track-wetness which is between 0 and 100%, and some cars, like that Subaru, will do
better than the others in this weather.
* I should note that my Subaru
continued to do well even after the rain stopped and the track dried. And as hinted, certain cars might not do so well if
it's raining at the start of the race. Search for a dry track and blue skies for one of these.
Eventually, once we're deep into this race (Lap 100 or so, maybe even earlier)
there's a chance that none of these strategies will even be required anymore. Our driver might be so far ahead of the pack,
due to other teams not keeping their aggressions' up. Harder tires can now be equipped to even out the competition, if
Full rack of Racing Tires
Full aerodynamics kit, with a front spoiler number no lower than 35, although I am
suspecting we can use cars with less downforce than this. TBA.
'08 Cusco Dunlop Subaru Impreza (2,424 pounds, with the math above
low-rated slightly to 2,400. This car was used during a partially-wet track day.)
Nürburgring 4 Hours
Nürburgring Type V
(2,400) 6.82 -- 352 hp
(2,400) 6.06 -- 396 hp
The cars above have not had oil changes or engine rebuilds done. It is possible to enter them into
this race with these services done. Make sure to subtract the proper amount of power from your
car's current power, to reflect how much will be left once oil has broken down.
Winged cars are those which include front aerodynamics which are numbered in the parts menu.
These aerodynamics don't need to be adjustable, and I'm recommending a maximum of 20 up front.
The ratios above include grids which do NOT include the Amuse S2000 GT1 (either car: turbo or non-turbo).
Either version will destroy the others.
It is important to find a good grid to compete against.
Four hours, meaning that this race is not just about the number of laps. During the last hour, a countdown begins, reminding
the player of many things. Like, DON'T take that pit stop with just 8 minutes to go, even if your driver's Strength is
completely gone. The only reason for a pit stop this late in the race will be fuel, of course. Low on fuel? You've got no
choice for previous bad pit stop choices.
The 4 Hours of Nürburgring includes the same group of cars which appeared in the Tuning Car Grand Prix, with
a few new faces. It will probably be the very last Gran Turismo 5 race I'll be writing up for this guide. 9 hours of
Tsukuba just sounds too boring to endure, and the 24 hour races might fry just up my 4-year old PS3.
Then again, those two 24 hour races might just warrant the purchase of PS3 #3. ;)
With the power I'm recommending, you will see your car fall far behind during initial laps, which is good for three reasons:
Number 1, strategy really comes into play, especially with pit stops. Number 2: our slow automobile has a tendency to keep
most of the pack active. As our car nears the ones in front of it, they'll tend to not fall half-asleep. They'll tend
not to slow down as much. Number 3: ... which keeps the race watchable and fun.
As per the A-spec version of this race, again, I have structured two main classes, with Class A being generally faster
than Class B. The good news is, there are even more members added into B, while a few get removed from A.
'04 Amuse S2000 GT1 Turbo
'04 Amuse S2000 GT1 (non turbo)
'08 Audi R8 LMS
'86 RUF BTR
'87 RUF BTR "Yellowbird"
Really, there are only two to worry
about here: the Amuses. Both RUFs are blindingly fast, but suffer from the same problems they did during the TCGP; in
effect, they'll occasionally take turns too hot and slide out, and there's a lot of turns for them to screw
On the other hand, if the RUFs can get to the point that they begin driving cold, they can turn faster laps than Class
B, if they are also driving cold. Group B
'08 HKS CT230R 170
'07 HPA Motorsports F565 Twin Turbo TT 190 mph
'xx HPA Motorsports Stage II R32
'01 Mine's BNR34 Skyline GT-R N1 (base) 202
'01 Mine's BNR34 Skyline GT-R N1 V-spec
'03 Nismo Fairlady Z Z-tune
'00 Nismo Skyline GT-R S-tune
'00 Nismo Skyline GT-R R-tune
'96 RUF CTR2 197
'00 RUF RGT
The top speeds mentioned above were observed down the main straight area, of course. If there's an asterisk next
to a car's speed, this means it hit its RPM limit.
Group B is really where the action is. Include as many of these folks on the grid as you can, and it'll be awhile before
action subsides. Some Skylines which were previously part of Group C during the TCGP now do an especially good job keeping
up, since they can hit faster top speeds than many others which would normally dominate. During the Tuning Car Grand Prix,
these slower cars maybe only did well during tracks with long straight areas.
Skylines and other AWDs like Audis also have the advantage of tire wear. They tend to wear their tires more evenly, while
RWDs fry up their rears, and begin sliding around.
Overall though, it's usually going to be the Amuse S2000 GT1 (turbo or non-turbo) who will wind up being the main car
of this 4-hour race. Ironically, the non-turbo version is not as fast as many Group Bs; in fact its top speed lags, especially behind
Skylines and Z-cars. But this Amuse has better fuel management than the others. It also can turn faster laps than the
others, once everyone is driving cold.
If a car is not mentioned above, it is in Class C, which means it won't be anybody's sort of threat. Class C can sometimes
hold up faster cars during that first lap or two (while we get a sizable lead if we happen to break through traffic), but
otherwise C is nothing to fear.
The Car: It's important to choose something which will keep up with the others, and not blow them away. Touring
cars, and others which boast medium to high aerodynamics, should be avoided. Instead, now we can get into
that list of cars whose aerodynamics aren't so high, topping at 15 to 20 up front. It may also be possible to enter cars
which haven't got any aerodynamic figures showing at all, though I haven't experimented with this.
Fuel: Unlike some other enduros, fuel management does come back into play. During that first stop, everybody
is forced to fill their tanks, even though most cars haven't burned more than half a tank. So it's easy to take (let's say)
30 liters instead of 50, and immediately gain some huge advantages. After this first stop though, it's a better idea to take at
least a 3/4 tank.
Tires: For the most part, medium racing slicks are going to be used, and that's what I used for the
bulk of this guide. Softs can be tried if we desperately need to catch up, and Hards can be used if some kind of 'penalty'
is being enforced.
Unfortunately, by the time everyone starts taking their second stops, that's usually when the action starts to die down.
By now, the grid is usually stretched so far apart from one another. On the other hand, you never know what'll happen with
this race. As long as the Amuses are kept off the grid, I've seen many others rejoin each other late into the race (as
many as six at a time) , and start sparring once again.
Medium Racing Tires mostly, with Softs and Hards ready if needed.
Height-adjustable or Full-custom Suspension.
Full-customized transmission set anywhere from 220 to 240 mph, depending where peak horsepower
lies on the tach. Cars with .
'05 Subaru Impreza WRX STI Spec C Type RA RM (2,400 / winged)
'99 Subaru Impreza Sport Wagon WRX STi Ver. VI (2,400 / unwinged)