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Parnelli's GT2 Racing Guide

If you are like me, you got bored by GT2 fairly quickly. After the initial shock wore off (all the hundreds of new cars & new tracks, the audible rumble strips, etc.) I realized just how EASY this game is. So this is what i've done to make it more challenging.

This page is is a list of weight to power ratios & car set-ups that will make your gaming experience more balanced and challenging. In GT1, all the specs for the cars you'll be up against (weight and power) are given before your race, which makes setting your car up fairly easy to do in the first game because you can compare your car to them. In GT2, this is all wack. They don't tell you anything ...you won't even be sure what you're up against till you're actually in the race!

This guide is not perfect by any means, but it's a good start for many cars. In some cases, a race or race series will have what I call a ‘Star Car’. This is a car that is given an obvious advantage over others. For instance, in the Apricot Hill Enduro, the star is the Ford GT40. You can either race against it or restart your game till it doesn't show up. In this case, a W2P ratio will be given for each version of the race. So what's a W2P ratio?

W2P ratio: This stands for Weight to Power. Your car's weight divided by its tested horsepower on the race track (not the dealer's quoted number, or garage figures, which are often untruthful) will give you a number.

In other words, say you've got a 1996 Camaro Z/28 30th Anniversary. It weighs 3,441 lbs. and produces 290 hp. So you take...

3,441 ÷ 290 = 11.9

That last number (11.9) is your W2P ratio.
 
I am using pounds in the example above instead of kilograms, because I grew up with English / standard system of measurements, but the guide should also work with metric. 

When setting up your car, the W2P should be more than or equal to the number on this website (generally). This is not an exact science, though. I find it works about 70% of the time. Another 10% of races you'll be evenly matched against the AI, but they'll be so stupid it's not worth it to hold yourself back. It helps if you enter cars into races that they're meant to be in, as well (enter a Dodge Intrepid in the Luxury Sedan Cup instead of a TVR, for instance).

÷ It's easiest to take your car's weight, divide it by the ratio shown on this page, and the number shown on your calculator will be the horsepower your car should be equal to or slightly lower than. Use whatever parts you need to set your car up closest to this number. ÷

Although there are various factors that contribute to your car's advantage over the AI (gear ratios, drivetrain parts, brake upgrades, suspension upgrades, tires, etc) the ratio should give you something to at least start with. In cases of an obvious advantage where your car has a naturally lower W2P than the AI, (say you enter the Z/28 in the first FR series race, for instance. The car's natural W2P is 11.90, yet the race the race is rated at 13.44) you can substitute crappier tires or suspension and get a better challenge.

Also, if you enter a car with a race kit on it and your competition is not race-modded, minimize your downforce all the way to stock so any weight advantage you have is minimized. This works pretty good. Okay, here we go! 
 


GT Series Races

NATIONALS {B & A licence}

Like the original GT, I like to do these races after the Sunday and Clubman are out of the way; hence I've figured out which parts aren't necessary to win with. This ties in with the ‘struggling driver’ theme and is credit-friendly to poor racers who can't ace the gold license trophies. Though I can attain golds in GT2, I find it's more fulfilling to take the game at a slower pace. I'd rather find a way to start the game with minimal credits.

B-license Nationals
,

Don't use any suspension, tire, brake, drivetrain, or tranny upgrades. One exception: fully-modifyable gears are allowed if the engine overrevs too early. Stage 1 weight allowed. The cars should be tuned with any engine or exhaust parts as long as they're 50 hp below whatever Gran Turismo allows. At Trail Mountain, this is upped to 30 hp below (167 hp instead of 197), see?

A-License Nationals

All cars can be modified with any engine, turbo, or exhaust parts as long as they fall within these limits: (use these hp figures for the 1st & 2nd A license races.

Midfield: 220 hp & 270 hp

Laguna Seca: 220 & 304 hp

Tahiti: 220 hp

Trail Mountain: 245 & 294 hp

Rome: 220 hp

Deep Forest: 220 & 318 hp

Allowed: carbon brake pads, weight 2, sports or semi-racing gears, lite or middle-weight flywheel, single plate clutch, pre-set lsd units, sports suspension & tires.

Not allowed:
brake controller, weight reduction 3 or race mods, racing gearbox (unless factory-set or close gears redline too early), ultra-lite flywheel, twin or triple clutch, carbon driveshaft, traction controls (like you'll need them at this point) or modifyable limited-slip differential, semi-racing or fully modifyable suspension, racing slick tires.
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GT Cup REGIONALS

{I-B license required}
Pacific: min hp: 330 max hp: 466

Midfield: 8.37

Seattle & Laguna: 7.57

European: min hp: 320 max hp: 430

Apricot Hill: 8.46

Grand Valley & Rome: 7.77


These are some of my favorite events in the entire game, simply because you can enter and compete with several hundred cars. Some of the Ai in these races are lightly modifed, like the Corvette, Impreza, and NSX. And some (like the Viper and RUF Porsche) only seem to have better tires since they're already pushing over 400 hp. Your car should have the ratio listed above, but no more than 466 hp; the reason is: heavy cars can be modified way past the 7.57 limit. Also, the AI Viper's engine has 470 hp.

•Use semi-racing suspension. If your car is over 3,000 lbs, use hard slicks. Use medium slicks on cars over 2,500 lbs. unless they are below 331 hp, then you can upgrade to soft slix. Cars 2,499 lbs. or below: softs. Use super soft slick tires only in cases of extremely bad handling (muscle cars, for instance).
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GT WORLD CUP
P2P= 3.95

I don't limit myself here unless i have to. You've got the Toyota TSO20 GT-One and various others to worry about, so unless you're using one of these or something similar...or an LM series car, Oreca Viper, R33 or 34 generation Skyline with over 600 hp, etc. I wouldn't worry about power. If you are using one of these beasts, try using a racing suspension but put hard slick tires on. Or Sports tires. Or even Normals!
 
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‘Special’ Races

Sunday Cup
: Who cares? :->
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Clubman Cup:

Personally, I consider the Sunday & Clubman Cups to be the starting races of the game just like in GT1, and I try and get thru them as painlessly as possible. I only do the Sunday & Clubman Cups at the very beginning of a driver's career when they're struggling to get parts on their car. This makes things difficult enough, especially that last race in Rome.
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FF Series
Tahiti Road {B license} P2P=14.34

Midfield Raceway {A license} P2P=12.78 / 130 hp min.

Trail Mountain {I-C license} P2P=10.65 / 160 hp min.

Notes: Use Normal tires & stock suspension at Tahiti, and sports tires & sports suspension at the other 2 races. If your car has a lower W2P ratio than listed go with normal tires in all races.
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FR Series

Route 5 Short Course {A license} P2P: 13.44

Route 5 Long Course {I-C license} P2P: 11.15

Midfield Raceway {I-B license} P2P: 9.78

Notes: Use sports tires & suspension in this race. If your car has a lower P2P ratio than listed above use Normal tires.
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Mid Engine Challenge

Grand Valley East {I-C license} P2P= 9.63

High Speed Ring {I-B license} P2P= 5.80, 8.20

Red Rock Valley {I-A license} P2P= -5.29, 6.20


The first ratio at H.S. Ring and Red Rox represents cars below 2,200 pounds. The 2nd ratio is for those above 2,800. I haven't determined a middle-weight classs, but it should be derived logarhythmically.

Anyone who's raced a mid-engine car on banked tracks knows how prone they are to spinning; so this could be why you win so much cash in the last race from the car you get.

• Use semi-racing suspension with sports tires, switching to medium slicks at High Speed Ring. Use a semi-racing suspension and soft slicks at Red Rock Valley...after all, the GT40 appears in this race about 1/2 the time.
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4WD Challenge

Seattle Short Course {A license} P2P=11.78

Seattle Full Course {I-C license} P2P=10.67

Laguna Seca {I-A license} P2P=8.54


• In the 1st race, don't be scared by the Lancer(s)… it's the lowly '92 Mazda Protegé GT-R that will blaze a trail for others to follow! I did get the ratio for this race from a '96 Lancer, though, since it has the lowest stock figure. The Mazda seems to be lightly modified.

* At the 2nd race, there are a slew of Imprezas and Lancers (take your pick) but the '98 version V GSR Subaru has the lowest ratio.

• At Laguna Seca, don't be fooled by the license requirement or the incredibly high horsepower limit; the cars in this race aren't as powerful as you might think. The mighty R34 Skyline rules here mostly. Use sports suspension & tires for all races, but you'll need racing slicks with a semi-racing suspension at Laguna (use the guideline in the GT regionals above).
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Kei Car Series {free, B, and A license}

I don't know about you, but i find these little ones difficult enuff to pilot around, they tend to be very skittery and nervous. One mistake and you'll be passed up by artificial intelligence that makes near-perfect turns every time.

• Give yourself as much power as you can here, without cheatng by entering a Demio. Use sports tires & suspension. You might actually want hard or medium slicks if you're racing one of the vans. Beware of the Suzuki Cappucino.

BIG HINT: try to take as many corners as possible with little or NO brakes.
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Compact Car Series
{B license}

Rome & Seattle short. P2P=14.16

Autumn Ring. P2P=13.0

Minimum HP=147

Use sports tires & suspension for all races. Go with Normal tires and/or suspension for more challenge.
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Muscle Car Series:
{I-A license}

W2P= 7.63

If you really wanna be fair here, you gotta go old skool! Normal tires, normal drivetrain parts, and no limited-slip upgrades, normal gears (except maybe a racing gearbox if your car overrevs too early). Brake upgrades, a semi-racing suspension, and LSD are needed, though, especially if you actually ARE racing sucky-handling American Muscle.

But if you're driving a BMW or something (cheater), go totally stock.
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Luxury Sedan Cup:

Rome Full Course {A license} P2P=11.86

Route 5 Special Stage {I-C license} P2P=9.31

High Speed Ring {I-B license} P2P=7.52


The 4-doors in these races are clumsy..they're all racing on street tires and suspension, but don't let this fool you; they tend to use walls to their advantage, especially at Rome & Route 5.

* Don't feel bad using sports tires or suspension or both (I tend to like using just the suspension at the first 2 races. At H.S. Ring I'll use both upgrades). Of course, if you're not actually racing a 4-door yourself, if you're cheating with a sports car..go with ALL normal parts!
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Historic Car Cup

Tahiti Road {A license} P2P=16.20 (min HP= 124, max HP=200)

Rome Full Course {A license} P2P=whatever

Grindelwäld {I-C license} P2P=7.10


The first race is easy. The 2nd one at Rome is one of the toughest in the whole game, which cheats and enters a Ford GT40, even though it's @10 hp over the game limit. YOU won't be able to enter a GT40, though. There can be a GT40 or a Cobra Coupe in the last race at Grindelwäld, both of which are killers, but at least you should have more of a chance against them.

• Use sports tires and suspension for the first race unless your P2P ratio is lower than 12.4..then you should switch to stock tires. In the 2nd and third race, you can use semi-racing suspension and racing slick tires. Race-modified cars (full-aerodynamics kit) are also highly recommended.
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Station Wagon Series

Rome Short Course {B license} P2P=9.81

Super Speedway {A license} P2P=11.5

Special Stage Route 5 {I-C license} P2P=10.93


Use a station wagon (duh) if you want to follow the unwritten rules.

• Use sport tires & suspension, switching to normal (stock) tires for the races at the Speedway and Route 5. Also, if you use the stock tires at Super Speedway, it'll help kill any cornering advantage and you won't likely wind up so far ahead. Like the Luxury Sedan race, these wagons just love to lean on each other and trying to ram you as you corner.
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80's Sports Car Cup

Trail Mountain {A license} P2P=16.69 min=144 hp

Route 5 Special Stage {I-C license} P2P=12.49 min=163 hp

Deep Forest {I-B license} P2P=9.99 min=198 hp

Seattle Circuit {I-B license} P2P=9.63

Tahiti Road {I-B license} P2P=9.63


* Use stock tires & sports suspension, upgrading to sports tires for the three I-B races, unless your car's handling is really sucky. The cars to watch for in this series aren't the RX-7's, Skylines, Celicas, or Silvia K's. The '89 Nissan March will kick your ass if you're not careful, so will the '82 and '87 Starlets. That's odd. ===­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­
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Convertible Car World

Tahiti Road {A license} P2P=12.88 MAX: 190hp

Grindelwäld {I-B license} P2P=10.28 MIN: 170HP

Trail Mountain {I-A license} P2P=6.50 MAX: 540hp


These little cars are surprisingly quick, but the Lotus Elise 190 totally smokes the rest of the sims in those first 2 races.

• Use sports tires and suspension, upgrading to a semi-racing suspension for the last race. This is assuming you're racing a little convertible roadster or sports coupe. In the last race at the Mountain, use racing slick tires. See the guideline above in the GT Regionals section to figure out which tire is fairest.

At Tahiti, it's best to use a lightweight car to get a fair race. The ratio at Grindelwäld is correct, but the AI tends to brake in a couple turns that it shouldn't need to, making the race alot easier than it is.
------------------------------------------------------------------Grand Touring Car Trophy

Red Rock Speedway: {I-C license} P2P=10.1

Grand Valley Speedway: {I-B license} P2P=8.80

Midfield Raceway: {I-A license} P2P= 7.92


The Skylines & surprisingly the Jaguar Coupe are strong contenders here, sometimes the Supra RZ. All the others put up a good fight but then wipe out in the corners, even the RUF Yellow Bird. Well, sometimes the stars do, as well.

* Use a semi-racing suspension if your car isn't lower than 130 mm with sports parts. Use racing slick tires in these races, too. See the Regional GT section above for a guideline on which tires to use for which weight.
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Pure Sports Car Cup:

Laguna Seca: {A license} P2P=8.48 (220 min. hp / 310 max)

Deep Forest: {I-C license} P2P=7.92 (240 min. hp / 327 max)

Trail Mountain {I-B license} P2P=5.87 (491 hp max)


These races are populated with light and middle-weight sports cars, and you can use whatever tires you want, but it should be the minimum required. For instance, Lotus Europa will need medium slicks, but a RUF Porsche at Deep Forest can be shod normal tires since it's power goes over the limit..

Sports or semi-racing suspension should do the trick, too.
The Ai tends to be typically dumb-spinning in the corkscrew at Laguna...understeering into the grass at Deep Forest, so keep your racing lines tight and lack of power shouldn't be much of a problem.
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Tuned NA Series No. 1
{I-A license}
P2P=9.04 (cars above 3,000 lbs.)
8.21 (+2,500 lbs.), 7.38 (+2,000 lbs.) or
6.65 for cars below 2,000 lbs.

* You can use logarhythms to figure out variations in the ratios above.

The Spoon Civic and a race-modified Peugeot 306 S16 will both duel with you here. They might have a lower W2P ratio than I've listed, so if you've got a less than 2,200 pounds or so, you can add more power. Use racing suspension & slick tires.
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Tuned Turbo Series No. 1
{I-A license}
P2P=5.70 for the 1st race...

Test Track: 2.79

Deep Forest: 4.23 @ with a max of 500 bhp


These drivers aren't dumb, but they don't have very good suspension tuners. In the 2nd race at the Test Track, a 1000 hp drag car will steal the show, but it has to brake massively before each of the turns, and you can take advantage of it here.

* You can use any tires or suspension you wish; i use slick tires on cars that weigh less than 2,300 lbs. and cars that weigh over 2,800 can have hard slicks. You can use whatever tires you want in the Test Track race.
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Gran Turismo All Stars
{I-A license}

General W2P: 4.03ish

W2p: 4.5ish SSR5-Med. others-S.Soft


This series of 5 races contains the famous 5-lap event at Red Rock Speedway, the quintessential race that has funded thousand's of Gran Turismo budgets since you can win $550,000 in just a few minutes after you sell the TVR Speed 12.

• Use Racing suspension and in most cases you can also use slick tires, tho with super lightweight cars like the Toyota GT-1 you can probably get away with stock or Sport tires. At Stupor Speedway, most of your supercars should be on stock (Normal) tires. Cars like the GTO LM which only have one engine tuning should be on specific tires in the last 4 races (see guide above).
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Super Touring Series
{I-B license}

W2P: 8.48. Max HP=330.


These cars have weak engines despite the racing sponsorship decals all over them, and rarely will you need to heavily modify an engine to win. Be careful of the gaudy '93 Honda Civic Si. Generally, he drives like he just learned how to race last week, but sometimes he'll get lucky. This car's W2P ratio is about 2 points LOWER than what i posted, so be warned. It's still very possible to beat the Civic, tho.

• Use racing suspension and slick tires, you'll need them.

Cars below 2,400 lbs. should have hard compound tires.
Cars above 2,401 lbs. = mediums.
Cars above 3,000 lbs. = softs,

This tire guideline is a bit of a judgement call that is hard to make since you never know which cars you'll be up against before your race.
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GT300
{I-B license}

P2P= 4.77 (cars under 2,000 lbs.)
5.15 (2,000-2,400) 5.73 (2,401-2,800)


Long considered THE most challenging series in the game, in this series you're surrounded by drivers dueling in real-life JGTC (Japanese GT Championship) cars who really know the courses. They won't drive into the grass at Deep Forest or spin in Laguna's corkscrew. So assuming you're not using an Excuso, you're really gonna need your wits here, especially if you follow the guidelines above.

• You'll need soft or super-soft slicks, racing suspension, full-modifyable gears, full-racing bodykit...basically anything that'll help. If you actually race one of the super-lite cars from this series (the Daisun Silvia, for instance) you may want to go with sports or hard slick tires for a challenge. The 1st P2P ratio for this race is taken from the Cusco Subaru Impreza, but i've won various races in this series with lesser cars.
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GT500
{I-A license}

P2P=3.70 cars under 2,500 lbs. or 4.77 over 2,500.


It is difficult to make this series ‘work’ by my guidelines. In real life, the GT300 and 500 mirror real-life JGTC Japanese racing and even feature some of the real-life cars complete with their sponsorship. 300 and 500 are supposed to be the amount of PS (similar to horsepower) the cars can boast, but in the game this is not so strict.

• You'll usually need soft or medium slicks (or a combination) at Laguna, Rome, and Trail Mountain. Use sports (yes, sports) at Super Speedway and Hard slicks at Apricot Hill. Equip a racing suspension in all races of course.
 
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Endurance Races


Apricot Hill Enduro:
{I-B license}

W2P= 9.68 without GT40 

If the Ford GT40 shows up, go with 7.22.


As you start the "ApeHill Enduro", pay attention to the map. If you see a car getting far ahead of everyone else, you've most likely got a GT40 to catch. It is possible (but rare) to wind up with a grid containing two GT40s!

When racing against the GT40, use sports tires & semi-racing suspension unless you're racing a car that handles poorly (like a muscle car). Then you can try using racing slicks. If you're not racing against the GT40, use normal tires & sports suspension.
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Trail Mountain Enduro:
{I-B license}
P2P=15.0. 

P2P in a car less than 2,000 lbs: 12.0

P2P w/o Lotus=14.6 Minimum 164 hp


Again, we have a Star. Just like at Apricot Hill, pay attention to the map. If an Ai is getting ahead of everyone else early on, it's most likely the Lotus 111S. Those who have GT2 version 1.0 might also find a Vector in their enduro, because someone over at PD programmed the game incorrectly. If the Vector is in your race, restart. You will never catch it with the HP restrictions you're saddled with. 

Use normal tires & semi-racing suspension, switching to a stock suspension if you don't wanna race against the Lotus. You may get ahead of this little sports car early cuz it lacks power, but it has better tire durability & long-range handling, making the game challenging as the laps pass.
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Seattle 100 Mile:
{I-A license}

P2P=7.18

Minimum HP against Shelby Ser.1: 320

Min HP against Camaro / Mustang: 260


Seattle features plenty of Detroit Iron & buckets of bolts from the past. The newer Mustangs and Camaros are just as heavy as some of the old muscle cars, but they handle a bit better so these are the ones you'll need to watch for. I got my ratio from the Dodge Viper GTS which appears in the race sometimes. Ironically, the Dodge rarely leads the pack here. If the Shelby Series 1 appears, that'll be your main competition ...hands down. At first, it'll act slow, but it'll creep up on you, so get as far ahead of the pack as you can early on.

If you actually race a muscle car or a light to middle-weight sports coupe, use a semi-racing suspension and hard racing tires here. If you're using a car that handles well (like an Impreza or something) you should handicap yourself even more with sports, perhaps.
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Grand Valley 300KM:
{I-A license}

P2P=6.21. Max hp: 455


The star auto is the Venturi Atlantique 400 GT, but the RUF Porsches RCT & BTR2 will also give you a hard time, especially thru the corners.

• Use soft and/or medium slicks and a racing suspension. Muscle cars may need super-soft tires.
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S. S. Route 5 All Night:
{I-A license}

P2P=N/A

Don't worry, this race doesn't last all nite. I typically get it done in an hour or so.

There is no ratio for this race since you'll be up against the '97 & '98 Nissan 390's or (even worse) the Toyota TSO20. Go crazy with the power...there isn't much that'll surpass these pure race cars. If you're using an LM series car, Ford GT40, Oreca Viper, any of the high-powered Skylines, or any other super machines, try putting some hard racing slick tires on to limit your advantage.
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Laguna Seca
{I-A license}

P2P=3.70


Unlike the Route 5 Enduro, this one features road cars that are modified for racing (what IMSA used to call their GTX class). Instead of pure race cars like the Toyota GT-One, you'll be up against the Denso Sard Supra--a highly modified road car. Therefore, if you race an LM-series car or something as mentioned above, go with hard slick or even sports tires. If you're racing a pure racing (GT-1) car, go with Normal tires. In any event, you'll want the full racing suspension.
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Rome 2 hours
{I-A liceense}

P2P=4.97

The most important thing to remember about this scenic race is that it goes by time instead of laps. Sometimes, you'll be on lap 88 instead of 90 and all the sudden the race will be over...this is because it is over in 2 hours no matter how many laps have been led.

• Use full-custom suspension and everything else you can. Some players claim they've used non-racing cars (no race kit) to win here, too. I prefer keeping my sanity.
 
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Manufacturer's Events

A lot of folks hate these races but I've come to love them. After all, they feature a random selection of tracks, half of which are reversed, and if you race one of these, it's almost the only way you'll get to drive around Rome Nite course on your Sim disc without a game shark!

All of these are 2-lap sprints. The cars in these races seem to be tuned to the same specs which makes them very predictable (there are some exceptions like the Celica and Civic series-both of which feature different styles of cars). Basically, if you run your car nearly stock, you've got a fair fight.

* Since the AI tends to cheat and will try slamming into you during races, give yourself an advantage: use a Sports suspension for challenging tracks. (you shouldn't need it at Super Speedway, for instance).

• Use Normal tires for cars with stock bodies and Sports tires for race-modified cars. In some of the fastest paced events (the Viper Festival of Speed & the TVR Speed 6) you might wanna go with hard or medium slicks.

These rules are not just a way to keep these races fair, they are a good way to keep them cost-effective, too. After all, you'll rarely need any parts more exotic than those listed above...)

No weight redux: Use racing muffler / air filter.
Stage 1: Use semi-racing muffler / air filterf
Stage 2: Use sports muffler / air filter.
Stage 3: No engine upgrades. At all.
Racing Mod: Use stage 1 tuning (NA or turbo, depending which is less powerful), racing muffler /filter.
 
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Rally Races

The Ai in these races are devilishly fast yet sometimes they do stupid things like slide uncontrollably. Everyone says drifting is good in rally races, but honestly it seems the AI hasn't got it down half the time. When it does ‘got it’, everything changes...those last 2 races @ Tahiti Maze are particularly tough, chances are you'll need a special car to win them like the $500,000 Subaru Impreza Rally or the Focus Rally Car. I'm assuming everyone you compete against have full engine upgrades, and that's how i got some of these figures. Some of them are derived from experience, tho.

Smokey Mountain South
{A license} P2P=8.46 Opponent: Daihatsu Storia 195 hp
{I-C license} P2P= 8.20 Opponent: Lancia Delta Intergralé Evoluzionê
{I-B} P2P=5.35 Opponent: Lancia Delta S4

Smokey Mountain North
{A license} P2P= 6.96 Opponent: Citreön Saxo 1.6i VTS
{I-C license} P2P= 7.90 Opponent: Renault Megane 2.0 16v Coupe
{I-B} P2P=5.00

Green Forest Roadway
{A license} P2P=7.75 Opponent: Opel Astra SRi 2.0 16v
{I-C license} P2P= 5.89 min HP: 460 Opponent: Ford Escort
{I-B} P2P=3.97 Opponent: Ford Focus WRC

Tahiti Maze
{A license} P2P=7.60 Opponent: '91 Toyota Celica GT-Four
{I-B licence} P2P=5.00 Opponent: Peugeot 206
{I-B} P2P=3.97 Opponent Mitsu. Lancer version III

Tahiti Dirt Road No. 3
{A license} P2P=7.08 Opponent: '91 Nissan Pulsar GTi-R
{I-C} P2P=6.14 Opponent: Lancia Stratos
{I-B} P2P=5.80 Opponent: Toyota Corolla

Pike's Peak Downhill
{A license} P2P=8.84 Opponent: Peugeot 306 S16
{I-C} P2P=6.71 min hp: 316 Opponent Lancia Stratos
{I-B} P2P=6.99 min hp: 287 Opponent: Mitsu Lancer Evo. VI GSR

Pike's Peak Uphill
{A license} P2P=6.77 Opponent: Ford RS200
{I-B} P2P=whatever you want Opponent: Suzuki Cultus
{I-B} P2P=another Escudo Opponent: Guess

Smokey Mountain North (reversed)

{A license} P2P=8.71 Opponent: '91 Nissan Pulsar GTi-R
{I-C} P2P= 8.10 min hp: 248 Opponent: Toyota Celica GT-Four RC
{I-B} P2P= 3.98 Opponent: Mitsubishi Lancer Rally

Tahiti Dirt Road No. 3 (reversed)
{A license} P2P=9.02 Opponent: '92 Mazda Familia
{A} P2P=8.49 Min hp: 280 Opponent: '96 Impreza WRX STi version III
{I-B} P2P= Opponent: Opel Tigra Ice
 
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EVENT GENERATOR

This nice thing about these races? You won't need a calculator! The computer does a pretty good job at matching horsepower rates & even gives us more variety for the cars you'll race against. It's not perfect, though. The cars themselves don't seem to be tuned any better than those in most GT2 sim races, and they don't drive any different, either, but occasionally there seems to be a ‘wild car’ programmed into the race that takes more daring lines thru corners, brakes later than usual with success, and will surprise you. Lots of people say the Event Generator sucks, but what the hell, i love it. You never know what track you're gonna be at next!

Like i said, there is no W2P ratio here. All you'll need to do is pick some engine and aspiration parts before the race; essentially create your own horsepower limit for the other cars to follow. "Rubber-band Ai" at its finest.

I'm finding that you can use any suspension, drivetrain, and brake parts that you want...your tires make the main difference. I'm in the process of doing a slew of Generator races and eventually will have a system worked out. So far: I've found (at the Expert level) it's safest to start on tires that are on the sticky side, but if you get too far ahead, try using harder tires in the next race.  

Using Logarithms

Sometimes, heavier cars will wind up having too much advantage, so here's a forumla I've worked out to figure exactly how much horsepower your car should be powered to according to its weight, which should kill some advantage yet leave room for lighter cars to not be too underpowered.

Say you've got a Dodge Neon R/T with Stage 3 weight reduction and are entering it into the Tuned NA races. It weighs 2,281 pounds. This is the light-weight class (2,000-2,500) according to my chart.

2,500 lbs. = 8.21 p2p

2,000 lbs. = 7.38 p2p

2,500-2,000=500 pounds

8.21-7.38 = 0.83 p2p

.83÷500=.00166 per pound

Neon=281 pounds over minimum (2,000)

.00166 x 281=.47 p2p higher than minimum

.47 + 7.38 = 7.85 final p2p

2,281 (Dodge) ÷ 7.85 = @290 final horsepower 
 

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