|
Parnelli's GT4 rating system
(*) = A very uncompetitive & boring event.
(**) = Typically, a 2 star race is one in which the 5 Ai vehicles follow each other like robots with no passing and
few moments of true drama.
(***) = An average GT4 event. A 3-star race often has a bit of unpredictability & drama. Reset race for a mixture
of good opponents and maximum playability.
(****) = A 4-star race is the best GT4 has to offer. Lots of interplay between you and the Ai. Multiple lead changes,
mid-race dueling and pumped adrenaline guaranteed. You may still need to reset the starting grid, though.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pan Euro Championship
rating: ****
* There are two different ratios below....one is for "sporty" cars (mostly modern coupes, sedans, and
wagons which can handle reasonably well), and the other set is for "good-handling sports cars". The good-handling
sports cars group mostly includes 2-door/2-seater types which tackle these courses with ease, but you may be able to
include a few coupes (like the BMW M3) which have stellar handling.
** The ratios below are designed to include "Group
2" cars in the line-up, not Group 1. see below.
*** The ratios below also assume the driver
qualified and made Pole position. If you didn't make pole, or if you want to simply start in 6th place,
power will need to be added.
coupes, sedans & wagons
Opera
/ Paris = ``````8.94 (2,700) /// 9.62 (4,100)
Grand Valley = ``````8.18 (2,700) /// 8.74 (4,100)
Cirque de la Sarthe I: 6.40 (2,700) /// 6.81 (4,100)
Cóte d'Azur ```````````` 8.52 (2,700) /// 9.53 (4,100)
Nürburgring ````````` 8.52 (2,700) /// 7.07 (4,100)
good-handling
sports cars & roadsters
Opera / Paris: ```````9.50 (1,900) /// 13.40 (4,100)
Grand
Valley: ```````8.75 (1,900) /// 12.27 (4,100)
Cirque de Sarthe I: 6.11 (1,900) /// 8.32 (4,100)
Cóte
d' Azur`````````9.40 (1,900) /// 11.91 (4,100)
Nürburgring````````6.62 (1,900) /// 9.42 (4,100)
*note: if the Jaguar XJ220 is not included at Sarthe or Nürburgring (and other Grp 2 cars are present) remove
some horsepower. I'm guessing 20 to 30 horses. This applies to both lists of ratios above.
-
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
*the following are a list a cars which can show up in
the Pan Euro series. I've delegated three different groups below.
Group
1
'03 Audi Nuvolori Quattro 594 HP, ? weight ? W2P
'99 Lotus Motorsport Elise 483 hp, ? weight, ? W2P
'86
RUF Porsche BTR: 473 hp, 2,600 lbs. =5.50
'03 Mercedes SLR McLaren: 601 hp, 3,897 lbs.= 6.48
Group
2
'00 Pagani Zonda C12: ? hp, 2,755 lbs. = ? W2p
'94 TVR Griffith: 478 hp, 2,336 lbs. = 4.89
'02
TVR Tamora: 478 hp, 2,336 lbs. = 4.89
'00 TVR Tuscan sp.6: 474 hp, 2,424 lbs. = 5.11
'97 TVR Cerbera
sp.6: 476 hp, 2490 lbs. = 5.23
'03 TVR 350C: 476 hp, 2,616 lbs. = 5.50
Note: 350C is the
slowest TVR--often lagging behind the others. But don't count it out...it can surprise occasionally.
'92
Jaguar XJ220: 516 hp, 3,024 lbs. = 5.86
Note: The Jag sometimes has problems at the slower tracks,
but really shines at Sarthe & the 'Ring, where its bulky, heavy shape isn't such a burden.
'97 Lotus
Esprit 350: 487 hp, 2,865 lbs. 5.88
Group 3
Cizetta V16T: ? hp, 3,614 lbs,
? Wp2
Note: The Cizetta is actually fast and should be a Group 1 car. Often qualifies
well, but the driver can't handle worth a damn. Think of this car as comic relief. You'll see what I mean. ;)
'03 BMW M3 CSL: 476 hp, 3,052 lbs.= 6.41
'04 Mercedes Benz SL65 (AMG): 616 hp, 4,470
lbs.= 7.26
'05 BMW M5: 506 hp, 3,780 lbs.= 7.47
'04 Aston Martin Vanquish: 478 hp, 4,044 lbs.= 8.46
'02
Mercedes Benz SL55 (AMG): 497 hp, 4,408 lbs.= 8.67
'04 Mercedes Benz SL600: 507 hp, 4,463 lbs.= 8.80
Description
This
is the race-series that finally got my palms sweating. Some cars ...actually make that most cars in the
Pan Euro drive like PROS, and do not let up!
Qualifying seemed easy at first. The Ai is easily smoked in these sessions if you just do a lap or 2. It took several
attempts and restarts before I understood the Ai means bizzness. They tend to drive harder once they're actually
racing than they do while qualifying.
Try this experiment: do 6 laps of qualifying at Opera (for instance). You may
make pole easily with 2 or 3 seconds to spare in early laps, but in the 4 or 5 laps after you've gained pole watch closely...
the Ai may bump your spot back to 2nd or 3rd as their tires warm and they get more confident. I've done some qualifying sessions
(particularly at the 'ring) where I've had 6 or 7 seconds over my opponents, yet the race itself turned out to be tougher
than expected.
Lots of Ai can take the spotlite. The 3 Ai groups listed above give some examples. I'll leave some mystery here because
it's difficult to predict who will be the best. Suffice it to say you should never assume you've got it easy. Practice
practice practice if you need to (I sure did).
As mentioned twice now, there are 3 different Groups which can
appear as Ai: Groups 1, 2, and 3, as found above. This took alot of research on my part to determine. Nothing is written
in stone, of course...there will be the occasional race where a Group 3 may fight strongly in a race where Group 2 is dominant,
but these moments are rare. Please note that including Group 1 will stagger the race series, meaning one car will
jackrabbit far ahead of everyone else, so I don't recommend racing against Group 1. It's just not as fun. If
you wanna try including Group 1, go ahead, but you'll need more power than I've posted in the ratios section above.
The
RUF BTR for some odd reason is on S3 tires, even tho all other Ai are on S2s. The McLaren Benz and Audi Nuvoloatari (however
you spell it) just have waaay too much power. The Lotus Motorsport Elise drives Paris very poorly, but rocks at most other
tracks. So like I said, all the ratios above were made while racing against Group 2 cars.
For
best results, make sure any TVRs, the Pagani, and/or the Lotus Esprit show up. You can go for a Group 3 line-up
as well, which means you'll need less power than I've posted, and unfortunately I don't have ratios for this, yet. I'm
suspecting it may be possible to race some front-drives against Group 3, tho. We shall see...
• Semi-racing suspension with S2 medium sport tires recommended.
Some cars may need these parts, too: fixed or full-custom limited-slip, close gears at Paris
and Monaco, twin or triple-plate clutch, carbon shaft. Full brake upgrades (sport brakes and balancer) for all
cars unless they're from the "good handling" group, then you can just get the sport brake package. And don't forget you may
possibly need a full-custom gearbox at Sarthe and Nubürgring for some cars.
You get the picture. It's
time to get serious!
*A Lotus 111R was driven for the flyweight (1,900 pound) category for good-handling sports
cars. A Mercedes Benz SL500 was used for the good-handling sport cars category. Not sure what i drove for the middle
& heavy weight sedan/wagon/coupe categories.
------------------------------------------------------------------
British GT Series
rating: **1/2 (w/o qualifying)
````````````* (with qualifying)
All weight-to-power
ratios below were derived without qualifying rounds.
Grand Valley Speedway
7.73 (1,500)
// 9.63 (3,700)
Fuji Speedway '90s
6.35 (1,500) // 9.30 (3,700)
El Capitan
9.67
(1,500) // 10.63 (3,700)
Infineon (Sports Car Course)
7.54 (1,500) // 9.25 (3,700)
Midfield
II
6.05 (1,500) // 8.75 (3,700)
Let's meet the Ai...:-D
'94 TVR Griffith 500: 494 hp, 2,336 lbs. = 4.73
'02 TVR Tamora: 487 hp, 2,336 lbs. = 4.80
'00
TVR Tuscan Speed6: 487 hp, 2,424 lbs. = 4.98
'03 TVR T350C: 489 hp, 2,616 lbs.
= 5.35
'00 Lotus Esprit Sport 350: 494 hp, 2,865 lbs. = 5.80
'92 Jaguar
XJ220 = 516 hp, 3,024 lbs. = 5.86
'98 Lotus Esprit GT = 494 hp, 2,920 lbs. = 5.91
'97 TVR Cerbera Speed Six:
494 hp, 2,940 lbs. = 6.01
'02 Lotus Esprit V8: 494 hp, 3,041 lbs. = 6.16
'98 Lotus Esprit V8-SE: 494 hp, 3,042
lbs. = 6.16
'99 Aston Martin DB9 Coupe: 494 hp, 3,769 lbs. = 7.63
'99 Aston Martin V8 Vantage: 559 hp, 4,342
lbs. = 7.76
Description:
Let's have a spot of tea, shall we?...while we suss these
events....
We'll require an International A license, which is a bit odd. I don't find the British GT Series
to be so demanding. Not that there's no challenge...certainly there is plenty if you severely limit power. But I-A?
>:-/ Hmmmm....
One HUGE criticism to make right off is: our opponents are lacking a bit of fire. I looked at the
power these guys were putting down...all of it hovering around 500 horses, and was disappointed because they drive so conservatively
during the race. This is why I DON'T recommend qualifying. Qualifying is actually a waste of time during the British
GT Series. Qualifying will guarantee each race can become a blow-away session if you've got any sort
of skill. By not qualifying, the British GT comes alive, and you can also save yourself some time. I mean,
use qualifying runs to test your car if you absolutely have to, but otherwise...you get the point.
Here's the good
part. Unlike the Pan/Euro Series up above, it won't take a long time to find a good grid for the British GT Series. A lot
of the cars are on the same page (or at least within the same chapter) so far as power & weight are concerned, and at
times they do compete with one another. But there are other races in which one driver will jackrabbit far ahead
of everyone else.
There are some Ai which will do well, and there are those which won't be much of a threat.
The Jaguar XJ220 seems to be the main jackrabbit-type. Same goes with the Lotus Esprit Sport
350. Both of these car feature modifyable downforce, which could have something to do with thier ability to get away
from the pack. So far, any other jackrabbits I've seen run ahead only mildly, if at all. There are always exceptions
of course, but usually the only ones to worry about are the Jag and the Sport 350. If you include these
guys in your events, you may need more power than I've recommended.
Obviously, the heavier ones towards the bottom
of the above list (Astons and such) shall toil immediately towards the rear. Oddly, it is these heavier GTs (Astons and
Jags) which make the best cars for us to drive more competitively. A TVR or an Elise is just overkill material, even
if they're hundreds of HP less than the Ai.
Use medium sport tires (S2) with
semi-racing suspension. Racing brake package as well, but no controller.
If you find yourself blowing the competition away at El Capitan with the ratios above, use S1 or N3 tires to get the
truest challenge. S1 for heavier grand tourers, and N3s for those which handle better, like TVRs and such.
Most cars will be fine with either stock or close-gearing, only some older models (or 5-speed
Elises) may need full-custom gearing, especially at Fuji.
Drivetrain parts can vary. I tend to
soup up the heavier models (Jaguars and Astons) with heavier clutches, lighter flywheels (depends on
track & situation), and the carbon driveshaft. Don't always need all this for the typical purer
sports car, though. Many of those lighter British cars (TVRs, Lotuses, etc) can go nearly stock for many of these
events.
Elises and other super-lightweights may need a fixed limited slip differential (1.5
or 2-way), as they can be quite a handful without them at the speeds you'll be going. This is truest at Midfield than it is
at other tracks.
* I used a '00 Lotus Elise for the flyweight (1,500 pound) category, and a '99
Jaguar XJR Coupe for the heavyweight category (3,700 pounds). Weight was reduced and/or added to create exact poundage.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Deutche
Touring Car Masterschaft
rating: * (with qualifying), *** (without, possibly)
And
here we have the Deutche Touring Car Masterschaft, otherwise known as the DTM. Although I haven't tried all the cars
which can possibly compete, I have taken a gander at some of their specs. It seems in all cases they've already got the
power necessary to tackle the DTM because they're all from a race series which was heavily-monitored in real-life. Kinda like
the JGTC. So those of us who are skilled won't have to tweak our power at all, and I won't have to spend
an entire set of days trying to calculate ratios for this portion of the page. ;)
For instance, I've got
the '92 AMG/Mercedes 190 E Touring Car. While it's stock, it's got 382 hp (track hp, not
garage hp) and that's without an oil change. I'm leaving this alone for these races, even though power can be added to this
car in the form of oil change or a Stage 3 or 4 turbo. Using anything more than absolute stock power is just overkill. The
only reason to add more than this is if I want B-spec to do a race, and with no qualifying.
While I applaud PD for
finally including a set of races which don't feature any jackrabbits (theoretically), and the prize car for winning the DTM
is GREAT, there are some problems...
One criticism is the limited amount of cars which can be driven here. I'm not
even talking about putting an American or Japanese vehicle in the DTM, I'm talking of the fact that a street-version AMG,
BMW, or Alfa (or whatever European auto) can't be entered. Kinda sucks. The reason it sucks is that it's harder to create
truely challenging races. That isn't to say the DTM isn't possibly tough; all I'm saying is people discuss such races
as the Opel Speedster championships more than they discuss GT4's DTM. Ever wonder why?
To get more
challenge, we have just a couple options: skip qualifying or use harder tires.
I just started
that first race at Paris in my AMG in 6th place, and it did take all 6 laps until I finally passed the leading Opel
Astra. Such races aren't always the case, unfortunately. Sometimes the DTM is too easy for us skilled drivers, even when skipping
those qualifying rounds. *sigh* At the following race (Mid-field Raceway) I was ahead of the same Opel by the
end of Lap 2! Why on Earth does it take an I-A license to enter these?
Of course, those who aren't as skilled
may find these challenging. I understand PD is trying to keep the DTM true to its root-cars (rather than having "outsiders"
also compete), so that some people reading this may...question my ethics. But my opinion is PD could have done better.
Parts
needed: they're already installed! Some cars may need harder tires (if you desire), but everything else is already bolted
onto any car which can possibly perform the DTM.
------------------------------------------------------------------
La Festa Italiano
rating: ***
Classic Cars (pre-70s)
11.05 (2,100)
B-Spec: add 40 horsepower
Three sprints, each just 2 laps. These races are most heavily populated
by front-drive cars, but the all-wheel drive Lancia Delta HF Integrale can also show up. Obviously, front-drive cars
don't do as well, so have them start in front of other drivetrain types. Another trick (if all cars that show up are front-drives)
is to have 4-doors start ahead of lighter 2-door models. In any case, there is some unpredictability here. Rules aren't set
in stone.
In some cases, these races can be comical..everyone gets feisty, drives off-course and into each other at
Autumn Ring, for instance. At Infineon Raceway, it won't matter if the Ai gets a healthy lead on you, they always blow
it at this track! There can be plenty of mid-race sparring at Le Festa Italiano events. I would rate these race 4 stars
if the Ai didn't drive so poorly!
Race on S2 {medium sport tires} and sport
or semi-racing suspension. Newer, spiffy cars can go all stock.
B-spec should have S3
(soft sports).
Racing brakes and light drivetrain parts are good. Many cars can use their stock
or close-ratio gearing.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Tous France Championnat
rating: ***
Opera / Paris Reverse:
16.98 (1,900) /// 19.09 (2,450)
/// 18.27 (3,850)
Circuit de la Sarthe I:
10.69 †(1,900) /// 11.92 (2,450) /// 13.85 (3,850)
Special Stage Route 5:
13.68 (1,900) /// 16.62 (2,450) /// 17.61 (3,850)
Grand Valley Reverse:
11.46 (1,900) /// 13.14 (2,450) /// 15.66 (3,850)
Côte d' Azur:
14.19 (1,900) /// 16.97 (2,450) /// 17.61 (3,850)
B-spec: Use
an AWD, mid, or rear-engine car. After finding the correct weight/power ratio, add 20-30 hp to a modern car
like a Clio Sport V6. Use 20 for tracks with standing-starts, and 30 for those with rolling starts. Older models and/or those
which handle poorly will need more than this...usually about +50 horses.
** all ratios above were developed with qualifying runs included. Add 40 horsepower if you
choose not to qualify. Do not qualify B-spec races if you choose to keep the faster cars off the Ai grid.
Welcome to the only French Euro-league races. As I expected, this batch is a bit of a walkover, hence the
A-license requirement. All the French automobiles in the Tous France Championnat (including sportier models) are relatively
low-powered, averaging around 220 hp. The Clio Phase 2 has the most at 249 bhp, but it is also the heaviest car (I think).
But the good news is: you'll be driving a variety of landscapes, the competition is somewhat motivated, and these events also
pay handsomely at $10,000 a shot.
Many cars show their faces in the Ai grid...Renaults, Peugeots, Citroëns, and Hommels. To create a 3-star group of
races, it is best to try and get the Hommel Berlinette R/S Coupe, 1980 Renault 5 Turbo, Renault Clio Sport 24v,
and/or Renault Clio Sport V6 Stage 2, or as many of these as you can on the grid.
If you choose not to qualify, you can include front-drives such as the Peugeot 106 and Renault Clio Sport 16v, but you must
find a grid that has them sitting in pole position while the mid-engine cars start in 4th or 5th place.
Pay
attention to your Clios..the front-drive Clio Sport 16v is not on the list above so ignore it if it shows.
Try and get at least 3 of the above (Hommel Berlinette, Clio Sport V6, etc) to show up. This can take awhile...so
be patient. These events can be a tad dull without multiple sparring partners. In many cases, you shouldn't need vast power
upgrades. I even won these driving my minivan-ish Renault Avantime against both the Hommel and the Clio Phase 2, as demonstrated
above in the heavyweight class (3,850 pounds). I also used a Citroën Xsara VTR for the middle-weight class, and a Peugeot
106 Rallye for the lightweight.
It is possible to do all front-wheel drive races, too. These require less power (TBD). If you go this route, it might
be a good idea to include as many "hot hatch" types as Ai (Meganes, 206s, etc.), while you drive a heavier model like the
Citroën Xantia.
• Use sports or semi-racing suspension for front-drive cars, as well as racing brake
kit and S2 medium sport tires. Some FWDs may also benefit from a 1-way differential. Close gearing
also recommended at some trakcs. Some cars may need a full-custom transmission at Circuit de la Sarthe. Cheaper
drivetrain parts (single-plate clutch + sports flywheel) too.
• Notice that first race in Paris. You'll be severely underpowered here because the Ai sometimes has a habit
of running into a wall before the race even starts, causing you to get a huge lead early on! The Opera/Paris ratio above was
made after qualifying in 1st. It is possible to remove a few horses after qualifying to get a closer race, but it is also
extremely risky because the Ai doesn't always strike that wall.
• If you gualify far ahead of the Ai at Grand Valley, don't change your power. This race features a standing-start.
Rear and all-wheel drive Ai will get a better launch and you'll usually need to catch them as you understeer heavily thru
GV's many curves.
I personally don't recommend using modern French mid-engine cars like the Clio Sport for the Tous France Championnat
unless you're going B-spec, not if you want any sort of a challenge that is. Older cars like the '80s-era autos and rear-drive
Alpines are okay, but you must keep them underpowered (to be determined).
---------------------------------------------------------------
European Classic Car League
rating: ***
Racing against Jaguar E-type
12.83
(2,900)
Racing against Class A (see 1,000 Miles section below)
18.42
(2,100)
* Results can vary from track to track. At some tracks, you'll have too much advantage, at others,
you'll be struggling for a win. To compensate, save your game between races. If you blow its doors off and want more of a
challenge, restart the game & the race on crappier N tires. Or remove some parts.
Description:
The
European Classic Car League (ECCL) an interesting set of races, as long as you carefully structure the opponents that
show up. Some races will rate 4 stars...up to 3 cars will be competeing for a win along with you! Other events will wind up
being boring as hell.
Conveniently, alot of the opponents that show up in this series are the same ones that show
up in the 1000 miles events (see 1000 Miles section below), minus those that are American or Japanese (so
no Corvettes or Nissan, Honda, or Japanese roadsters ...no Mazda Cosmo, etc).
This lack of additional cars
hurts the series somewhat, as there's a lack of interesting scenarios unless you HUNT. In fact, if you don't find a good grid,
this is one of GT4's suckier race-series because you'll only be fighting one other car if the AC Cobra, Jaguar E-type, or
Mercedes 300SL (in that order) show up.
It's best to hunt and hunt for a good, but slower, grid. Finding
the Ginetta, Lotus Elan, and Alfa Romeo GTA is best. Even tho the Ginetta is faster than these others, it usually
blows its cornering, after which it catches up down the straights. Exciting stuff. Other Alfas (the Spider and the Giulia
Sprint) can sometimes keep up at tighter courses. You can use the 1,000 Miles Class A rules below to race against these
any of these guys.
Use semi-racing stock, sports, or semi-racing suspension (depends
on what you need to get your car to corner better). Cars that corner well can go stock, while cars that need the most
help will need semi-racing parts.
⊸ Sports Hard (S1) tires as well. This is what the Ai
are driving on. If you have too much advantage, it's possible to also use any of the N tires as well.
Racing Brakes as well as whatever transmission works best (without overkill). Some cars may need
full-custom gearing at some tracks, but can have stock or close gears at
some others. Sports clutch & flywheel can be used in some cars to enhance shifting (if they need it).
------------------------------------------------------------------- Euro Hot Hatch
League
rating: **1/2
Front Engine/Front Drive
T.
Ring Motegi East
11.96 (1,900) /// 14.33 (2,500) /// 15.87 (3,000)
Opera / Paris
13.88 (1,900) /// 13.17 (2,500) /// 16.22 (3,000)
Trail Mountain II
12.60 (1,900) /// 15.59 (2,500) /// 17.14 (3,000)
Suzuka East
11.67 (1,900) /// 13.77 (2,500) /// 15.15 (3,000)
SS Route 5 II
10.99 (1,900) /// 13.40 (2,500) /// 14.28 (3,000)
B-spec: Add @50-70 hp after qualifying
* please note the Ai is somewhat unpredictable. sometimes they drive well; other times they seem to be having
"off" days. the ratios above include qualifying runs. calculate your power using the above numbers and do at least 3 laps
of qualifying, or let the Ai do a couple laps before you qualify. then, modify the engine/exhaust accordingly but beware and
try not to stray too far from the ratios above.
Description
Is the EHHL as hot as i'd hoped it would be? Well it is intense, and you never know
which car you'll be up against from race to race. But unfortunately the Hot Hatch League is a bit unpredictable in a couple
bad ways:
1. You might have a close race, but it's also sometimes possible to find faster Ai cars bottleneck behind
slower ones, leaving you with a multi-second lead.
2. You might qualify 4 seconds faster than anyone else, yet during the race be confronted with a
Renault Clio Sport that all a sudden drives well and jackrabbits far ahead. Also, be warned that the Clio Sport driver often
seems to "decide" to drive harder in the last lap...almost as if he's thinking "enough with the games, now it's time to
hand that driver his ass!"
The Clio Sport V6s (24v & Phase 2) generally dominate these about 75% of the time. It can take
awhile, but finding a grid with both Clio Sports + the Renault 5 is best. Having the Ford Focus,
BMW M Coupe, '80 Renault 5 Turbo, and/or '85 Peugeot 205 Turbo (but NO CLIO SPORT V6) is recommended for a closer
race between multiple Ai. There may still be some spread, however, at some tracks. Remove 10 to 15 HP
if you exclude the Clio Sport V6s.
• Use S2 medium sports and sport or semi-racing suspension. For cars
that maneuver pooly or for B-spec, try using S3 soft sport tires. Skittish FWDs may need a 1-way differential
to tame wheelspin.
• For front-drive cars, keep in mind that at Trail Mountain and Suzuka, you'll be doing a cold-start. Don't
modify your power too much even if you've got a qualifying run that turns out to be several seconds too fast.
Cars I drove for above ratios:
Flyweight FWD (1,500 pounds): Fiat Panda 1000S
Lightweight
FWD (1,900 pounds): Peugeot 106
Midweight FWD: (2,500 pounds): not sure what i drove
Heavyweight FWD (3,000 pnds): VW
Golf GTi 5-door
All cars had weight redux or ballast to achieve exact weights.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
1,000 miles!
rating: ***
Nürburgring: `````10.31 (1,000) /// 15.54 (2,150)
Opera/Paris: ``````12.06 (1,000) /// 16.24 (2,150)
Côte d' Azur:`````` 12.06 (1,000) /// 16.24 (2,150)
Circuit de Sarthe: 11.00 (1,000) /// 13.93 (2,150)
• Please note the W2P ratios above represent strictly A-spec driving. It is possible (but not recommended)
to give Bob or Beth a turn; but if the racing is close, i recommend letting them take an early driving shift...no later than
the 1st or 2nd pit stop. With limited power, B-spec doesn't do so well, and you'll be playing a huge game of "catch-up" if
you wait too long to let them take over.
....All of this assumes you haven't got a huge, double-digit lead of course. If you've begun a 1,000 Mile event and
find yourself far ahead of everyone else, by all means feel free to let B-spec take a shot if you want a break...but pay attention
to how things are going. You might be surprised how royally Bob can screw up!
• If you plan on racing with mostly B-spec driving (stepping in yourself occasionally as an A-specer), and
your B-spec driver has some previous experience, find the W2P ratio of the greatest Ai car below and mimic it with a slightly
higher ratio of your own. The '65 Alfa Romeo GTA Sprint, for instance, has a W2P ratio of 14.53. To combat against it with
this method, i gave my '69 Nissan Bluebird 1600 a W2P ratio of 15.89, which resulted in lap after lap of close-racing fun
for Bob, and some nail-biting moments for me. :)
• Rather than boosting power, another option might be to get creative and switch tires in B-spec (you race
on S1's but put S2's on for Bob; or a combo of road tires {N3} and S1's might be appropriate). I've had mixed results with
this, however.
• As i've gained more experience with GT4, i've found myself qualifying for some 1000 Miles! events, but then
saving my game after the qualifying session is done. This ensures i'll start in 6th place (rather than the usual 1st) and
guarantees early-race drama! Do this only if you feel confident, of course.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Ai Opponents
and how they drive the Ring
'66 AC Cobra 427 S/C = 478 hp
the fastest of the Ai. do not compete against this
buddy unless you want to be far ahead of everyone else. a fast but ultimately unfair & boring fight.
'61 Jaguar E-type: 265 hp / 2,686 lbs. (10.14)
steady driver. fast. doesn't pit
as often as other top-line sports cars.
'63 Chevrolet Corvette (C2) = 249 hp / 3,019 lbs. (12.13)
steady driver. fast. a
tad sloppy as tires get worn.
'54 Mercedes Benz 300 SL: 212 hp / 2,854 (13.46)
steady driver, fast. pits every
6 laps
'68 Nissan Fairlady = 141 hp / 2,049 lbs. (14.53)
steady driver, faster than you
may think at 140-ish mph. rarely takes pit. At Sarthe, the Fairlady sometimes begins to get overconfident & spins in the
sand after 6 or 7 laps. but sometimes it will drive the entire race with no spins.
'62 Lotus Elan S1= 104 hp / 1,408 pounds (13.54)
steady driver, perfect cornering.
118 mph max. pits only once per race!
'67 Nissan Skyline 2000 GT-B: 123 hp / 2,413 lbs. (19.62)
really slow, heavy, &
disappointing. why can't we have the Skyline GTR instead?
'68 Isuzu 117 Coupe = 118 hp / 2,314 lbs. (19.61)
steady driver. good cornering
but slow.
'69 Isuzu Bellet 1600 GT-R = 113 hp / 2,138 lbs. (18.92)
steady driver. good cornering
but slow.
'65 Alfa Giulia Sprint GTA 1600 = 113 hp / 1,642 lbs. (14.53)
steady driver, great
cornering. 125 mph. pits every 8 laps.
'63 Alfa Giulia Sprint Speciale: 112 hp / 2,094 lbs. (18.69)
2nd fastest Alfa. fishtails
sometimes. 124 mph down straight.
'67 Mazda 110S = 109 hp / 2,116 lbs. (19.41)
steady. 120-ish down straight
'66 Alfa Spider = 108 hp / 2,116 lbs. (19.59)
great cornering but too slow
'64 Ginetta G4 = 99 hp / 1,001 lbs. (10.10)
fast but sometimes bad (sometimes okay)
driver. 130 mph max. may pit erratically.
'70 Mini Marcos GT= ?
the fastest front-drive car. pits every 6 laps, unfortunately,
as its front tires wear out
'65 Honda S800: 99 hp / 1,586 lbs. (16.03)
zippy in those corners, but short gearing
limits this one to 111 mph. pits erratically
'62 Nissan Skyline Sport Coupe = 97 hp /
boy Skylines were slow back in the day....
'63 Nissan Skyline 1500Deluxe = 96 hp /
again, nothing to worry about here....
'65 Nissan Silvia ? hp
slow & steady. not very confident
'65 Toyota Sport 800: 96 hp / 1,278 lbs. (13.31)
slow. 96 mph down straights. makes
stupid decisions on track and rarely pits.
'68 VW Karmann Ghia = 87 hp
slow. 103-105 mph max. this car coulda been a dynamo
if it wasn't limited by its sloppy rear-engine layout and short gearing.
'65 Fiat 500 R = 78 hp
struggles with corners and never tops 65 mph unless another
Ai rams it. no threat to anyone
......You don't need a license, you don't need alot of money, and you aren't limited to entering just
European cars in these European events. You don't even need to be sufficiently skilled; many have let Mr. B-spec do the work
matter of fact. But if you're not a lazy dolt, read on.
Here we have an interesting batch of tracks, cars, and events. Be willing to put alot of time here (for adults with
jobs like myself this could mean up to a week) and the payout is sweet....but lots of driving is in your near
future. For many folks, these 4 events will be their first experience with endurance racing so winning here is important cuz
you won't be able to do all 4 races in a few minutes or even hours.
• Pay attention to your opponents before you start lapping at Nürburgring. It is very possible to wind up against
an over-powered car like the AC Cobra. Up above, I've typed a good portion of the cars that you may face, with their
respective horsepower, weight, and W2P ratio, and a description of how the car/drivers take on Nürburgring and Circuit de
Sarthe (the most demanding tracks here). I have done this in an effort to try and get several Ai cars on the same page. Below
i have mapped out a few classes of Ai and they correspond to the W2P ratios above.
CLASS A
For a low-power challenge, look for races that have the '62
Lotus Elan S1 and '68 Nissan Fairlady 2000. I've seen the Ginetta take the front too, but this car sometimes drives
well, and other times extremely sloppy.
CLASS B
For a lower-power challenge, include the '70 Mini Marcos, '65
Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA or the , '68 Honda S800, VW Karmann Ghia, and '65 Toyota Sports 800. The front-drive
Mini will put up a great fight early on but unfortunately it will pit earlier than the Alfa. The other 3 (Toyota, Honda, and
VW) will fight more evenly. Sometimes. Sometimes not.
• If you race against the first 2 Class B cars (Alfa and Mini), use the W2P ratios
above, but remove 20 hp. If the Toyota & Honda are present, remove 30 hp.
CLASS C
Finally, there are the '63 Alfa Giulia Speciale, '67 Isuzu Bellet GT-S,
'68 Isuzu 117 Coupe, and '68 Mazda 110S.
• When racing against these, use the W2P ratios above but remove 35 hp. You may also need
to install N3 (road tires), or use a stock suspension. The "Class C" list of Ai is probably larger than the 4 cars i have
listed presently, so stay tuned....
• A high-powered race that involves a good match between multiple cars unfortunately does not exist. You can
choose such a race, but in just a few laps, there will be way too much spread between the AC, Jaguar, Corvette, and Mercedes
(in that order). Which really sucks and bummed me out for awhile. On the other hand, i've seen the Lotus Elan S1 (with its
extremely rare pit-stops) take command of the race at the shorter Paris and Monaco tracks...beating both the Corvette and
the Mercedes!
• S1 hard sport tires or N3 road tires recommended. Stock, sport or semi-racing
suspension. Many of these older cars will need limited-slip devices and or racing gears (only if absolutely necessary--like
if your car over-revs down the long straights of Nürburgring and Sarthe).
• Racing brakes (but no controller) needed, too. Single-plate clutch at best,
but no carbon shafts, twin clutch or other "modern" type parts should be installed. Try and think of what was available to
drivers in the 1960's....you kinda want to keep your baby sporty without being "overkill-sporty".
---------------------------------------------------------------
Schwarzwäld Liga A
rating: *
Front-Drive
Trail Moutain: 13.54 (1,950) // 16.38 (2,900)
Paris:``````````````13.00
(1,950) // 16.96 (2,900)
Autumn Ring II: 10.83 (1,950) // 15.18 (2,900)
Rear-Drive
All
tracks: 18.07 (3,000)
Volkswagens! Audis! Beemers! OH MY!
These are 3 races (3 or 4 laps each) in which the sims will be racing German cars only (durrrr), with power
just north of 200 bhp. Against my better judgement, I ported the V6 in my Audi S4 and wound up smoking the AI a bit too
easily on sports tires. Later I took an Audi S3 hatchback, kept the power stock with just an oil change (231 bhp), and
still won, even on a stock suspension and N3 tires, tho the races finally were a bit closer.
...So basically, I've been letting Bob handle these. Hell, he needs the Battle Points anyways. :-D I'm kidding! Sort
of....
If you want to race A-spec fairly, you'll need to seriously hold back. A baby 1-series BMW or a
used Mercedes SLK 230 Kompressor can do it. So can some front-drives. Golfs are
perfect. But no matter what: it won't take much power to win these.
The Ai drives with what I'll describe as a
lack of passion, rarely will there be a mid-race battle for instance, despite the fact that they are all similarly powered.
They drive with horribly safe, generic cornering lines and take few risks. Schwarzwald Liga A makes the K-cup
races look exciting in comparison.
The biggest, baddest Ai to have on the grid are the Audi S3, Audi TT 3.2,
and the VW Golf R32. Start these behind others or they'll jackrabbit, especially at Trail Mountain. Actually never mind
that. Anyone can wind up jackrabbiting at any track (except maybe a heavier car
like a BMW 330i or a front-drive). In some caces, I think it's OKAY to have a jackrabbit car take off! At least
it'll give you something to chase for the next 3 or 4 laps. The few close Liga A races you'll find will feel way too easy.
All-wheel drives have a strong advantage at Trail Mountain since this course features a standing-start, but I've also
seen lighter rear-drive BMWs win over Audis at Trail Mountain, if they start on pole position. Other than these small
tads of unpredictability, there's little to get excited about.
• S2 medium sport tires and a sports suspension are good. S3
sports (for B-spec) with sports suspension are recommended here for Bob.
If your
car is off the chart and has too much power (as many German autos in this game are), you can try driving on N2
or N3 tires. A-spec driving in cars that have had significant weight reductions call for even more drastic measures as
you see fit (use a stock suspension instead a sports, for instance). Sometimes, you'll get a good lead on the Ai even if you
follow all my guidelines.
If you drive a front-drive, feel free to add some better parts as needed (particularly
a close-ratio gearbox, twin clutch, and lighter flywheel. Sports brakes are also good,
but a controller is overkill.
• Give B-spec cars a close transmission with an assortment of drivetrain & brake upgrades
if needed.
I used a Opel Corsa Comfort with stage 3 weight and 7 kg (15 pounds) of ballast added for the 1,950
front-drive category, an '01 VW Golf with some ballast for the 2,900 pound front-drive category, and a BMW 135 for the 3,000
pound rear-drive.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Schwarzwäld
Liga B
rating: ***
Nürburgring:
8.90 (2,900) // 9.59 (3,500) // 10.13 (4,000)
Route
246:
8.48 (2,900) // 8.79 (3,500) // 9.45 (4,000)
Fuji
Speedway 90s:
10.00 (2,900) // 9.69 (3,500) // 10.93 (4,000)
High Speed Ring II:
10.00
{N3 tires} (2,900) // 10.29 (3,500) // 11.23 (4,000)
Suzuka Circuit:
9.66 (2,900)
// 9.89 (3,500) // 11.23 (4,000)
B-spec:
Nürburgring: 6.11 (2700)
Route 246:````6.34
(2700)
Fuji 90s: ````` 7.01 (2700)
HSR & Suzuka: 7.10 (2700)
Now we have the races
featuring Germany's heavyweights--the AMGs, the Ms, and the RSes. This batch is better than Liga A. The Ai is powered
up to 600 bhp at the most, but you won't need anywhere near this much if you're good.
We're only allowed
cars from a pre-approved list (M3, SLR McLaren, RUF RGT, etc), which really SUCKS. You CAN'T bring a lesser car
like the BMW 330i or a used Audi S4 and race, even if you boost power above 300 hp before you enter, because the STUPID rules
only allow cars that have over 300 when stock... But this is okay. It is possible to create a good set of
races, so the main thing you'll have to worry about is what car to enter.
A good rule is to have a grid where
4-wheel drives start in front of rear-wheel drives at any track except High Speed Ring. In other words, have
Audis start in a better spot than BMWs and Benzes. If you get sick of looking for such a grid, just find one that
starts Benzes in front of BMWs, but keep in mind you might have to add a few horses. At High Speed Ring, all the
Ai seem to have taken a dose of Sominex, and they don't drive nearly as aggressively as they do at other tracks, so have BMW
M3s start on pole if it makes your race more challenging.
If there are no BMW M3s or late-model
2-door AMGs, remove 10 to 50 horsepower. Cars which are lighter and handle more nimbly
should have more power removed than those which are heavy/handle poorly, but this is not an exact science.
At horsepower-hungry Route 246, some Benzes (other than the 2-doors) can put on a good showing, and you can remove
power only if both Ms and late-model AMGs are absent here.
Use S2 medium slicks
or a combo of S2 and S1s. Sport or semi-racing suspension. An assortment of drivetrain parts can be used,
like close gearing and twin clutches.
The Ai drives High Speed Ring poorly, not taking advantage or laying
down full power in those banked curves, and even braking into them! If you find yourself getting too much advantage
here, you can try using N3 tires instead of S2s.
Some cars you may race (like M-series BMWs and newer
RUFs) have such fantastic stock brakes, and all around great cornering. You'll be giving yourself an unfair advantage with
a brake kit when racing these cars. So as a rare limit, go with stock brakes in one of these. And DON'T use
a brake controller on any cars you race. Again, this is overkill.
I used an RUF 3400S with
35 pounds (16 kg) of ballast to get the 2,900 pound category, a BMW M3 with 40 pounds (18 kg) of ballast to get
the 3,500 pound category. I think i used an M5 for the 4,000 pound category, but I'm not sure.
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