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GT5 Expert Series (B-spec)

Tuning Car Grand Prix

Participants: 12

Suzuka Circuit
(2,000) 4.23 -- 473 hp
(2,500) 5.20 -- 481 hp
(3,000) 6.02 -- 498 hp
(3,500) 5.95 -- 588 hp

Daytona Road Course
(2,000) 4.32 -- 462 hp
(2,500) 5.23 -- 478 hp
(3,000) 6.20 -- 484 hp
(3,500) 6.06 -- 577 hp

 Grand Valley Speedway
(2,000) 4.09 -- 488 hp
(2,500) 5.00 -- 500 hp
(3,000) 5.68 -- 528 hp
(3,500) 5.83 -- 600 hp

Special Stage Route 5
(2,000) 4.03 -- 496 hp
(2,500) 4.90 -- 510 hp
(3,000) 5.62 -- 534 hp
(3,500) 5.83 -- 600 hp

Tokyo Route 246
(2,000) 4.28 -- 469 hp  
(2,500) 5.18 -- 483 hp
(3,000) 5.85 -- 515 hp
(3,500) 5.83 -- 600 hp


The above ratios were made with both tuned street cars and dealer-bought racers with full aerodynamics, although these aerodynamics were not too aggressively set. If strong aerodynamics (higher than 20 up front) are used and the first race at Suzuka is defeated too early, try less power at other tracks.
If a car is consistently unable to break out of mid-pack (yet is not sucking at this series altogether) try adding some power. I usually go for +50 hp, assuming this extra power can be added.
Note that the Heavyweight class was created with a Dodge Viper, but I also experimented with an Audi R8, which is more of a supercar, and not really a "tuner". This Audi needed roughly 50 hp less than posted, and I suspect a lot of others on the Audi's level (including RUFs, Nissan GTRs, Italian supercars, etc.) wll also require much less.
I generally give touring cars and winged tuners slightly less power (5 to 10 hp less) than what's stated up above at all tracks (example: Mazda RX-8 Touring Car).

This is a race series I enjoyed during A-spec, and I thought this enjoyment might carry over while watching my virtual drivers, too. Well, this depends. Some races will be wall-to-wall action, all seven laps'll have you on the edge of your seat!  Other races....let's just say that you may find yourself reaching for the remote more often than usual.  

This is the Tuning Car Grand Prix. There are lots of tuner cars to be found in the Premium lounge, but the real fun is finding a non-tuner car for our drivers to try. I am talking about going to the dealerships, and actually tuning something from the ground up. This is one of those rare B-spec series in which a dealer-bought car which we've tuned ourselves might actually be able to go up against a group of fully-finished products. There are even a few cars that can be shared between A-spec and B-spec, although B-spec will require more power. And of course, there are many fully-finished racing cars which can also be used. Those from PD's imaginary Touring Car class (RX-7 TC, Impreza TC, etc.) are an example, although some of these can defeat the TCGP too easily.      

Not every car we'll find will be suitable, so it may take a few tries to find the right one. I originally entered a '99 Honda S2000, which handles the tracks great but can only be tuned to something like 428 hp, and that's not enough. The '03 Nissan Z-car I tried next could be powered well over 500 horses. There, that's better.  

 If you've got a mid-weight car (2,500 pounds or so) it should be able to make just over 500 horsepower. You may not need this much for every race, but it's better to be safe than sorry.     

I assumed the B-spec drivers would drive worse than the A-spec ones, but this is not so. The RUFs still get sloppy at Grand Valley and Route 5, yet they are less daring during B-spec. 

Unlike the A-spec version, B-spec's got a couple different rules to take note of.

(1). Jackrabbits don't always reliably win, since the parameters during B-spec allow for drivers to be more conservative if they get a lead. This means: it's possible that an Amuse S2000 GT1 or a RUF BTR, or some other such rocketship might get an early lead, and it'll look like it'll assume a comfortable win. But this lead can also get pwned by our sleeper, who creeps behind and snags their spot.   

 (2) the races are longer, which means the A.I. can tire drastically at Suzuka, Grand Valley, and Route 5. Often, they will have meager strength and shreds of Mental Health left by the 6th and 7th lap.

As during the A-spec version, only the S2000 GT1s will truely jackrabbit during B-spec. They might not get very far ahead, but they will often get enough of a lead that it's impossible for our 2nd-place driver to catch up. Keep them off the grid, or include them (adding a bit of extra power if necessary).

Hard Racing Tires

Brake balancer

Full-custom suspension (cars which are dominating too easily can go with lesser parts, but in most cases it's important to use the FCS as a tool, custom fit for how your driver likes to drive.

Full-custom transmission is optional for some, a complete necessity for others.

Twin clutch, flywheels & carbon driveshaft, as needed.  

Limited-slip differential for most rear-drives  

Cars Driven:
'01 Spyker C8 Laviolette (lightweight / 2000 lbs).
'03 Nissan 350Z, Subaru Impreza Touring Car (Middleweight / 2,500 lbs.)
'10 Chevy Camaro SS (Heavyweight / 3,000 lbs.)
'07 Audi R8 4.2 FSI R-tronic, '02 Dodge Viper GTS (3,500 lbs.)

Schwarzwald League A
participants: 12
Level: 15
Nürburgring GP/F
(2,000) 9.66 -- 207 hp
(2,600) 10.67 -- 239
(3,400) 13.23 -- 257
Tokyo Route 246
(2,000) 9.09 -- 220 hp
(2,600) 10.79 -- 241 hp
(3,400) 12.45 -- 273 hp
The above ratios were made with typical hatches, not sports cars. These ratios include Opel Speedsters (Turbo or non-turbo) on the grid. Some extra power may be needed if BOTH Speedsters show up, and your car is front-drive, or somehow not as competent as they are. .
 If these do not show, try removing 10 to 50 horsepower. Those with better handling, sleeker aerodynamics, and rear or all-wheel drive should generally have more power removed than most front-drives and / or lesser-handling autos. Some front-drives though (Mini Coopers, for instance) might need 50 removed AND have any aftermarket parts also removed.   
If you enter a rear-wheel drive or AWD which immediately gets to the front at either track, and both Opel Speedsters are present, remove 15 horsepower or more. If only one Speedster is present, less power can be removed. If neither Speedster is present, up to 50 hp can be docked.     
Two races, 6 laps apiece. The Schwarzwald Liga A can be fun, outstanding, or somewhat boring to watch, it all depends which driver you've hired for the job, how they perform, and what other cars possibly show up to race against. Hot-headed drivers tend to do best at GP/F, since they are the ones who will usually make that daring move deep in some kink or hairpin that nets them a position or two. On the other hand, sometimes these sort of drivers get an early lead a little too easily. Next thing you know, you're watching a 4 or 5 lap sleepfest!
As long as power is calculated correctly though, usually there's some good racing is to be viewed. I've seen my driver's yellow Golf GTI go head-to-head for many laps up against an Opel Speedster at either track, which is fun to watch. A front-drive hot hatch against a mid-engine/rear-drive sports car?  Yes, it can happen.  
Cool-headed drivers do better at Tokyo, obviously because they are more aware of this track's high-speed walls. It all depends, though. The Ai actually does a good job at avoiding these, too. It's rare that I've seen any side-swiping or collisions.   
Again, it's the Speedsters which lay down the greatest law, and if these don't appear, some power can be removed. Since B-spec races always feature a standing-start, Speedsters can easily steal multiple positions from the very beginning. Starting them far back on the grid can be beneficial, as sometimes they'll wind up getting stuck in traffic. This is truer at Nürburgring than it is at Tokyo, though.
If they make it to the front, often they still drive faster than us, even when they're in "conserve" mode, way ahead of everyone else. So starting Speedsters behind us, or on pole, rarely makes much of a diff.
Parts Needed
Hard Sport Tires
Brake Balancer (for most hatches and other non-sports types).
Fixed Sport Suspension, especially for front-drives. All-wheel drives and MR cars can possibly go stock, while some classics might need something beyond a fixed sport suspension
Close-ratio gearing for some at Nürburgring GP/F. Some classics might need custom gears for either track
Drivetrain parts as needed. 
Cars Used
'01 Volkswagen Lupo GTI (2,000)
'01 Volkswagen Golf GTI MK IV (2,600)
'03 Audi A3 3.2 Quattro        (3,400)

MR Sports Cup
Level: 16
participants: 12
Deep Forest
(1,450) 4.26 - 340 hp
(2,500) 5.12 - 488 hp
(3,200) 5.51 - 580 hp
High Speed Ring II
(1,450) 4.46 - 325 hp
(2,500) 5.33 - 469 hp
(3,200) 5.79 - 553 hp
Circuit de Sarthe
(1,450) 4.08 - 355 hp
(2,500) 5.08 - 492 hp
(3,200) 5.39 - 594 hp 
* note that the lightweight class (1,450 pounds) created by the Motor Sport Elise is theoretical. The car can't actually make as much power as shown above, but it did manage to win the first two tracks. It takes a lot of time for this to happen though!
Grid placement strategies don't seem to matter much in these races, since they are so long. If a top car (like a McLaren F1) starts on Pole, GT5's B-spec drivers always go into 'conserve mode', cutting their speed back once they start to get a strong lead. This allows our drivers to catch up, unless they're having a tough go of it.
Actual racing cars (like the Raybrig NSX) can be entered into these races. Remove 20 to 30 hp for them though, and minimize their downforce. If you want to race with the McLaren F1 present, this power won't need to be removed.
 Note: There are some cars that seem like they'll destroy this series, but can't seem to do well. The Ferrari F40 is one of these. No matter how much power I give it, it just loses every time.
Ford GTs weighing their full weight (3,200 pounds) will need 500 hp at Deep Forest, not 580. 490 hp at High Speed Ring, not 553, and 475 at Sarthe, not 594.         
These are the mid-engine races, and what fun they are to watch. All three races are (or can be) high-speed action from start to finish. Yes, by Laps 8, 9, and 10, the grid has pretty much thinned-out, meaning that if our driver gets an early lead, chances are he'll be way in the lead (yawn), but there is some unpredictability here. The race I'm watching now had a 3-way battle going from Laps 4 until literally 10. My driver won. This race was so good, it's going to wind up being one of my rare B-spec videos that'll get saved.  
Then again, the next race at High Speed Ring wound up being a one-on-one for the last 4 laps of the race (yawn). But the good thing is that It's also easy to use some cars we drove during A-spec here in B-spec. And we won't always have to tweak these cars up, power-wise. Save some damn credits.  
As is usual in the world of GT motorsports, it's the ones that are lightweight / more filling that we'll need to be aware of, though nothing is written in tarmac. For example, at Deep Forest, here's a few that I've noticed who wind up on the front lines.
'71 Lamborghini Miura P4000
'94 McLaren F1
'00 Pagani Zonda C12S
'02 Pagani Zonda C12S 7.3
'01 Volkswagen W12 Nardo
But at High Speed Ring and Sarthe, other heavier cars can also make a difference, since drafting is now a huge factor. I've seen the Enzo Ferrari, Saleen S7, Jaguar XJ220, Ford GT, maybe a couple others here and there, also join in the fun. But the main pack of cars will be the five mentioned above in bold letters.
They can be fun to watch, as they lightly spar with one another, wiggle out of turns, and almost lose their balance. I'm not really sure traction controls are being used here or not, but I wouldn't be surprised if the answer is finally 'no'.   
Parts Needed
Soft Sport Tires
Brake Balancer
Height-adjustable sport suspension (some cars will need less. If they need full-custom tuning, perhaps you'd better look for a different car, though).  
Limited slip (assuming your mid-engine car is a wiggly one that the driver's having trouble with).
Full-custom transmission for many at Sarthe, tuned somewhere over 220 mph. The other two tracks vary quite a bit. Most cars won't need such tall gearing for Deep Forest or High Speed Ring, they can use factory or close gears instead.  
Other drivetrain parts as needed.
Cars Used
''00 Lotus Motor Sport Elise (1,450)
'00 Lotus Esprit Sport 350 (2,500)
'02 Ford GT, '06 Ferrari F430 (3,200 pounds)

Historic Racing Car Cup
Level: 17 
participants: 12
Deep Forest
(1,366) 2.18 = 625 hp
Cote d'Azur
(1,366) 1.69 = 805 hp (start with this power, let power climb as engine breaks in).
Placement strategies don't matter much at either track. The best cars can be started on Pole, or they can be started dead-last. At least one or more of them will be up on the front lines by Lap 2, no matter what.
At Cote d'Azur it can help if there is only one Chaparral 2J on the grid, not two.    
At Cote d'Azur things can get interesting, as the best cars can sometimes get a little too eager, losing positions as they get into accidents. Slower cars can make more of a difference now.
I have rarely been able to see one of my drivers win this second race at Cote d'Azur, by the way. The 2J just is near-impossible to defeat, but don't give up! With patience and maybe multiple attempts, victory can be attained. I have seen more success with cool-headed drivers than medium or hot-heads, but overall, Cote can be one of the harder races to win. See details below.   
If you're like me, with lots of cash but nowhere near enough to buy one of the cars which can possibly compete here, and that race-modified '69 Camaro just won't do it, you're in luck. The B-spec version of Like the Wind has got a prize which'll competet: a 1970 Toyota 7. This one will easily win at Deep Forest. And as inferred, it can also win at Monaco, though it usually takes several tries to do so.  
Once you've got this car (or some other decent historic machine, some of which are in the list below) money might not need to be spent at all, except for tires. For instance, all the cars which appear in this series are on medium racing slicks, and this might be the only upgrade needed, since racing cars generally come with everything else.
Here is a list of cars. From top to bottom, we're looking roughly at the best choice for our drivers at Deep Forest, to the worst. At Cote, it'll be the Chaparral 2J which is the absolute tops, while Toyotas fall somewhere mid-pack.   
'70 Toyota 7
'70 Chaparral 2J
'67 Chaparral 2D
'67 Ferrari P4
'67 Ford GT40 Mark IV
'66 Jaguar XJ13
'69 Ford GT40
'63 Chevrolet Corvette Z06     
The same list of cars above (from top to bottom) will also prove to be our hardest and easiest enemies. If you've got that Toyota 7, it will ultimately be another Toyota 7 that will challenge at Deep Forest. At Cote, the 7 will now perform with more issues for some reason, and it'll take a lot of patience before a win is seen in one of these. Some drivers simply won't be able to get it done!   
Overall, Deep Forest can be a dull race to watch. Cote d'Azur is much more interesting, since the fastest & best tend to make occasional mistakes, slamming into walls & guardrails. Make sure to temper your driver's enthusiasm here (SLOW down!!!!) especially into the super-tight dual-chicane area just after the end of the tunnel.
The Chaparral 2J will now be dominant at this second track, as its cheaty suckerdynamics can make more of a difference during slower turns. Unfortunately, there is always a 2J which gets to the front, and then begins stretching its lead. It'll take an enormous amount of power just to catch up to it, and then keeping our driver from slamming into inanimate objects can become frustrating.
Again, I have had more success with cool-headed drivers, with at least 22 levels of experience. I managed to get a total hot-head to win here once, but it took dozens of attempts to do this.    
Medium Racing Tires
For what it's worth, here are some settings I used for a car which won Cote d'Azur. Hope they help...
Aerodynamics: 60 Front / 75 Rear
1st Gear: 2.795
2nd Gear: 1.645
3rd Gear: 1.265
4th Gear: 0.935
5th Gear: 0.700
Final: 4.660
Top Speed: 199 mph
Limited-Slip: 6 / 24 / 20
Ride Height: -20 / -22
Springs:  10.5 / 12.2
E. Dampers: 4 / 5
C Dampers: 8 / 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 / 4
Camber: 1.5 / 1.0
Toe Angle: -0.12 / +0.15
Brakes: 5 / 4
Cars Used:
'70 Toyota 7

Turbo Challenge
participants: 12
Level: 16
-Sports Cars-
High Speed Ring
(1,500) 7.97 -- 188 hp
(2,000) 8.33 -- 240 hp
(3,000) 9.31 -- 322 hp
Monza Circuit
(1,500) 7.78 -- 193 hp
(2,000) 7,68 -- 263 hp
(3,000) 8.43 -- 356 hp
-Hatches, Sedans, Wagons, Front-drives etc.-
High Speed Ring
(2,000) 6.78 = 295 hp
(2,500) 8.20 = 305 hp
(3,000) 9.09 = 330 hp
(3,500) 9.04 = 387 hp
Monza Circuit
(2,000) 6.39 = 313 hp
(2,500) 7.69 = 325 hp
(3,000) 8.38 = 358 hp
(3,500) 8.57 = 408 hp
There are two classes up above. Sports Car Class comprises only the best of the best, and not every typical 2-seater, sport sedan, or 2+2 can use this lowish power. An example are Mazda MX-5s. Earlier NA models (with hidden headlights) do not do as well as later NBs (headlights showing). NA will be using the bottom class, while the better-handling NBs can be Sports Cars all the way.   
The above ratios assume Class A opponents do not appear, or in some cases start very low on the grid. If Class A is present, starting ahead of you, 100 horses can be added.
If you've got a front drive car, add 20 hp at High Speed Ring, and 40 hp at Monza. This helps FF during the standing-start launch. A lot of FFs won't be able to pile on this extra power, so do some research first, and keep in mind that not all front-drives will need this extra power. Some, like the Ford Focus RS, can sometimes do just fine without it.
All-wheel drives don't really have any real advantage here, since lots of Skylines, STis and Evos show up to all races, so power doesn't need to be deducted for AWDs.   
Some boxy cars (like STis, Evos, Buick GNX, etc.) may also need a bump of power at High Speed Ring to make up for their poor aerodynamics. Add 10 to 50 here). Touring wagons get more power than sport wagons which get more than sedans and coupes, here. A lot of judgement calls are being made here, basically. 
This same power bump can be applied at Monza as well, but try this track without it first. Lots of slow/fast areas at Monza, some cars can get an advantage here, especially if they've got decent handling & traction.
 There are some cars though, that for whatever reason, just can't win the Turbo Challenge, no mater how much power we throw at them. I was giving a Mitsubishi Legnum +100 horses over basic for instance, and it was still unable to break out of even the rear of the pack.         
Turbo-aspirated cars only, hence the name of this series. If you try to enter a car without a turbo here, you can just keep on trying.
At 10 laps a pop at HSR, and 6 laps at Monza, these can be somewhat boring to watch, especially if you just bombard your vehicle with lots of power. I was surprised to find myself downplaying B-spec power only 40 horses (thereabouts) more than what I would use for A-spec. But get your power situation right, and you'll have yourself some fine racing to watch, your drivers getting stressed, that sort of thing.    
There are two classes in this race (as there was during the A spec version) however Class A is less packed than it was. Only the Lotus Esprit and Nissan GT-Rs are now going to be a threat, requiring more horsepower. The older JDMs (RX-7, 300ZX, etc.) don't pull like they did during A-spec for some reason. There's a chance they might be able to if they start on Pole or 2nd place, but not lower on the grid.
 With 10 laps and 6 laps to get busy, Class A is also able to separate itself from the rest of the pack, which is something not seen during A-spec. They will usually get a good jump on the others if they're started on or near Pole, but (again) they'll then go into conserve mode, allowing us and Class B to catch up.   
Soft Sport Tires
Fixed or Height-adjustable sport suspension. Some can go stock.
Full-custom transmission for some. Those with super-tall gears can sometimes go with a close-ratio unit. 
Drivetrain parts as needed. Typically this means single or twin-clutch, one of the flywheels, and carbon driveshaft. Limited-slips can be used for some, but in some cases this creates too much advantage.
Brake Balancer for some. By now, you should know which cars have better stoppers, and which do not.    
Cars Used
'00 Lotus Elise         (1,500, Sports Car)
'04 Mazda MX-5 1800 RS (2,400, Sports Car)
'01 Honda S2000          (2,800, Sports Car)
'90 Honda CR-X (2,000, Hatches, Sedans, Wagons)
'90 Mazda RX-7 Infini III (2,500, Hatches, Sedans, Wagons)
'95 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT              (3,000, Hatches, Sedans, Wagons)
'99 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo. VI GSR T.M. SCP (3,000, Hatches, Sedans, Wagons)
'98 Nissan Fairlady Z Version S (3,000, Hatches, Sedans, Wagons)
'89 Nss 300ZX & '00 Niss Skyline GT-R (3,500, Hatches, Sedans, Wagons)

Gallardo Trophy
participants: 12
Level: 17
591 hp
Weight can be reduced to Stage 1 for best results.
Not very excited about this one, how about you?  Racing a Lamborghini (or watching a Lamborghini race) should be exciting, right?  Somehow, the Gallardo Trophy has wound up being one of my least favorite B-spec races in the entire game. I'd rather watch the Sunday Cup.
The same Gallardo we drove can now be driven by one of our underlings, though it'll need some tweaking to be competitive, which is described in the Parts department below.
Notice they've got about 591 horsepower. PD actually did some power-upping here!  You won't need to go this far, especially if money is tight, but it helps to get as near to 591 as possible. I have found that our drivers will usually steal their first 3 or 4 positions during the very first lap, but catching up to the leader(s) can sometimes take almost all 11 laps to accomplish. Which is fine with me. As long as it all gets done in a race or two.   
Soft Sport tires
Fixed Sport Suspension
Stage 1 Weight Reduction
light drivetrain parts (a limited-slip should not be necessary, but a better clutch, flywheel, and carbon driveshaft all can help).
Whatever parts necessary to get as near to 591 as possible.


Japanese Championship

participants: 12

Level: 18

Tsukuba, 14 Laps
(2,000 Sports Class) 7.09 = 282 hp
(2,500 Sports Class) 8.47 = 295 hp
(2,800 Sports Class) 8.48 = 330 hp

(2,000 Tuning Class) 5.81 = 344 hp
(3,000 Tuning Class) 8.02 = 374 hp
(3,500 Tuning Class) 8.77 = 399 hp 

Fuji Speedway F, 7 Laps
(2,000 Sports Class) 6.82 = 293 hp
(2,500 Sports Class) 8.60 = 309 hp
(2,800 Sports Class) 8.80 = 318 hp

(2,000 Tuning Class) 6.89 = 290 hp
(3,000 Tuning Class) 8.57 = 350 hp
(3,500 Tuning Class) 9.28 = 377 hp

Grand Valley Speedway, 7 Laps
(2,000 Sports Class) 6.82 = 293 hp
(2,500 Sports Class) 8.09 = 309 hp
(2,800 Sports Class) 8.40 = 330 hp

(2,000 Tuning Class) 6.71 = 298 hp
(3,000 Tuning Class) 8.10 = 370 hp
(3,500 Tuning Class) 8.90 = 389 hp 

Autodromo Nationale Monza, 7 Laps
(2,000 Sports Class) 7.41 = 270 hp
(2,500 Sports Class) 8.77 = 285 hp
(2,800 Sports Class) 9.07 = 309 hp

(2,000 Tuning Class) 7.19 = 278 hp
(3,000 Tuning Class) 8.77 = 342 hp
(3,500 Tuning Class) 9.72 = 360 hp

Suzuka Circuit, 7 Laps
(2,000 Sports Class) 6.82 = 293 hp
(2,500 Sports Class) 8.60 = 309 hp
(2,800 Sports Class) 8.89 = 315 hp

(2,000 Tuning Class) 8.01 = 288 hp
(3,000 Tuning Class) 8.49 = 353 hp
(3,500 Tuning Class) 9.45 = 370 hp  

There are two classes here. Sports Class are the typical better handling 2-seaters and 2+2s, but this class can also include a few sedans and wagons, such as Subaru's Impreza STIs. In general, this class includes those which are known to have better handling traits. Only top-notch front-drives such as newer Honda Integras can be included here.    

Tuning Class includes most front-drives, and poorer-handling rear & all-wheel drives that B-spec typically can't score wins with. It's those front-drive hatches, and also lunkier rear and AWD models (like the Mitsubishi GTO, older Fairlady Z-cars, or Toyota Aristo, Toyota Celicas, etc.) which require more power and tuning to succeed, since they can't always beat others in those turns.

In most cases for the Sports Class, grids won't need to be "stacked" with the worst cars starting in front of us. Go ahead and put as many of those better automobiles up there, with the only exception being the Honda NSX, which I personally ban from all races.

Numbers for the Tuning Class, on the other hand, were typically made by keeping those better cars off of pole and/or 2nd place. If your entry is still struggling at those first two tracks, go ahead and add more power for the next three. And if it's still not making wins, there are some easier grids to compete against; they just take longer to find.

The ratios above were calculated with no NSX present. If the NSX is included more power may be needed, 30 to 50 hp more. Sports cars will need less than touring cars.

The Tuning Class numbers assume you've got a rear-drive. Add 30 hp to front-drives at Tsukuba, and then you can keep adding power at other tracks, unless your car is totally sucking. Keep in mind that most front-drives won't be able to make the recommended numbers, so choose wisely.

Remove 20 to 40 hp from some of the better all-wheel drives and mid-engine cars, otherwise they can get a better launch than others during the start of the race, instantly getting to the front. Yawn. 20 can be removed for a grid which features plenty of better sports cars (Skylines, STis, Evos, Z-cars, etc.) starting as high as Pole. 40 can be removed for one of the easier grids. And if your car does too well during the first scenario, or can't keep up during the second, try removing 30.      

Dual-NSX teams can also show up in these races. If so, even more power should be piled on: both NSXes will start competing with one another on the front lines, meaning that their drivers won't go into 'conservative mode'.

Lots of laps, lots of racing, but fortunately some of it can be REALLY good to watch. Here comes me saving B-spec video #2, in which my driver's '99 Lancer Evo battled it out lap after lap with an MR2, an RX-7, a Mitsubishi Evo X, and finally the Honda NSX, which he overtook during the very last lap into the final hairpin. That NSX had a strong lead, its driver taking things a little too easy. What a race.  

It is easy to use a car recently driven for this series of five races. Whatever a B-spec driver used for the Turbo Cup will work for instance, assuming it's Japanese. And chances are it might need even less power than it had. Or you can build something from the ground up. Either way, it won't take a lot of power to compete in these, unless you've found something which starts off as a real weakling.

The drivers who show up are all competent. There are no unskilled dweebs who use up all their Strength, slipping off-track and making a huge mess. Any sloppiness on their part is a rarity.   

The NSX winds up being top dawg, just as it is during A-spec. Personally I choose not to include these (and yes, I am contradicting here, since I just described a race with an NSX present). If an NSX gets an early lead, it will often continue to hold this lead, even as its driver's status bar goes from red to blue. If another car catches up to the NSX, the NSX can still safely use its better driving traits. It will not start sliding around and stuff as the driver's status bar begins to warm again. So it's advised to keep NSXes off the grid, or start them as low as possible.

As usual, there are others who make a decent showing, including all the usual rear-drives: Nissan Z cars, Honda S2000s, a Toyota MR2, and Mazda's RX-7s, and RX-8s. They won't pull like the NSX, but they do a pretty decent job of fighting their way towards the front amongst the Skylines, Evos, STis, and any other all-wheel drives.

Parts Needed

Soft Sport Tires

Fixed or Height-adjustable Sport Suspension for the Sports Class. Some cars can go stock. If your car makes it to the front a little too early during that first race at Tsukuba, this is one such car. In general, those from the sports car class can start with a fixed suspension.

Full-customized suspension for the Tuning Class, in some cases.  

Close-ratio transmission for some, especially at Tsukuba. Other cars with super-tall gearing can also use this unit at other tracks.

Full-custom Transmission for others with gearing that is too short, or awkward in some way.

Single-plate clutch, one of the flywheels, and carbon driveshaft (if applicable). These parts can be mixed 'n' matched. Again, those cars that blow away others at Tsukuba can substitute stock parts here.

Limited-slip device for some rear-drives.

Brake Balancer, especially for Tuning Class.
Cars Used
'95 Mazda MX-5 S-Special (2,000, Sports Class)
'99 Honda S2000 (2,500, Sports Class)
95 Mazda RX-7 Type R-S, (2,800, Sports Class)

'97 Honda Civic Type R (2,000, Tuning Class)
'97 Mitsubishi FTO GPX (2,200, Tuning Class,)
'03 Acura CL 3.2 Type S (3,000, Tuning Class)
'96 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL (3,000, Tuning Class)
'98 Nissan Fairlady 300ZX Ver. R (3,500, Tuning Class)
'02 Nissan Skyline GT-R Vspec II (3,500, Tuning Class)  

Gran Turismo All Stars
Level: 19 
participants: 12
All Races
(1,800) 2.05 -- 875 hp
(2,000) 2.20 -- 910 hp
(2,100) 2.28 -- 919 hp
Grid 4
(2,200) 2.66 -- 828 hp
Note that power is a suggestion for this series. If your car is struggling at Trial Mountain and Grand Valley, go ahead and add more for the other tracks (if you can). If it's blowing 'em away, less can be tried.  
The same rules for A-spec apply here for B-spec. Even if you enter one of the top machines which appear in this series, it can have trouble making its way to the front if some of the faster GT All Stars start on or near Pole. It's best to keep the best cars back a few positions, so they'll get slowed down, allowing us to catch 'em.
Some racers can be used even though they are underpowered, such as the '98 Nissan R390 GT1, which is 200 pounds heavier than the maximum of 2,000 pounds seen in most other GT1s, and about 20 hp below 910 hp. Just choose a grid which lacks a lot of the better cars. Grid #4 has a Courage C60-Peugeot as its strongest competitor (Group 2, see below), packed amongst a field of mostly Group 3, the slowest of three groups outlined below. Choosing this grid will work sometimes, because if the C60 will get ahead of everyone else, and then we all know what happens.
Now let's see some B-spec sweat, and I mean this literally. By the end of each race, our drivers will often have used up all their Strength, and most of their Mental Strength. How are they ever going to handle some high-paced endurance races?  
Right off, it's recommended to find one of the better GT1, Group C, or Le Mans Prototype-style racers which appear in this series: Mazda 787B, Peugeot 905, Nissan R92CP, etc. Don't even think about entering anything less. Of course, the ten million or so gamers out there who have theoretically already finished this game and have moved on to GT6 long ago already know this, I'm just iterating this info for the dozen or so who are new to the game, and using this guide. Slackers. :-D
If you're struggling to afford the monstrous paytags one of these sorts of cars demands, you're in luck. The A-spec version of Like the Wind! awards a Minolta Toyota 88C-V which is perfect for this outing. Of course, this assumes you've already got something capable of finishing Like the Wind! as well.      
During A-spec it was recommended to look for lesser cars, and arrange them on the grid in specific way, and this rule still comes into place. Here are the three classes I imagine this race would have, if it were a real-life FIA outing instead of a Gran Turismo mishmash. Keep in mind that like the A-spec version of this race, the cars in Group 1 will generally dominate the others, with Group 2 occasionally making upsets, and Group 3 not really mattering much at all. The main diff is that those fastest cars can also start driving conservatively, if only one of them gets far ahead of the others (and our B-spec driver). This is the main diff between A and B-spec, as we've seen before.      
'01 Audi R8
'?? Audi R8 (Audi PlayStation) 
'06 Audi R10 TDI
'89 Nissan R89CP
'92 Nissan R92CP
Playstation Team Oreca Audi R8
'04 Pescarolo Courage-Judd GV5
'05 Pescarolo C60 Hybride-Judd
'89 Minolta Toyota 88C-V 
'03 Bentley Speed 8
GT by Citroen
'88 Jaguar XJR-9 LM
'91 Mazda 787B
'89 Sauber Mercedes C9
'98 Nissan R390 GT1
 '92 Peugeot 905
'03 Courage Peugeot C60
'99 Toyota GT-One
'01 Audi R8 LMS
'98 BMW V12 LMR
'63 Chevrolet Corvette Z06
'00 Chevrolet Corvette C5-R
'00 Dodge Viper Team Oreca
'00 Ford Falcon XR8
Ford GT LM
Ford GT LM Spec II
'67 Ford GT40 Mark IV
'04 Gillet Vertigo
Jaguar XJ220 LM
'66 Jaguar XJ13
'99 Lister Storm V12
'70 McLaren 2J
'97 McLaren F1 GTR
'98 Mercedes Benz CLK-LM
93 Calsonic Nissan Skyline GT-R
'07 Dunlop ER34 Nissan Skyline GTR
'06 Xavani Nismo Z
Pagani Zonda LM
'98 Panoz Esperante GTR-1
'70 Toyota 7
Medium Racing Tires (Hard tires can be used for some who dominate the series too easily).
Brake Balancer
Everything else your Top Racer comes with. Get in there and tune it all.
Cars Used
'91 Mazda 787B (1,830)
'88 Minolta Toyota 88C-V (1,875)
'05 Pescarolo C60 Hybrid-Judd (2,000)
'05 Audi R8 (Playstation Team Oreca) ( 2,100)
'98 Nissan R390 GT1 (2,200, easier grids only)

Polyphony Digital Cup
Level: 19
participants: 12
Circuto de Madrid
(2,000) 6.13 = 326 p
(3,500) 8.78 = 401 hp
Trial Mountain
(2,000) 6.69 = 299 hp
(3,500) 9.07 = 386 hp
Grand Valley Speedway
(2,000) 5.92 = 336 hp
(3,500) 8.54 = 410 hp
(2,000) 5.68 -- 352 hp 
(3,500) 8.04 -- 435 hp
Trial Mountain
(2,000) 5.35 -- 374 hp
(3,500) 7.30 -- 479 hp
Grand Valley
(2,000) 5.23 -- 382 hp  
(3,500) 7.01 -- 499 hp
The situation here is similar to what's going on during Turing Car Grand Prix. I've tried to structure two different classes of cars. As seen before, Sports Car Class won't require as much tuning as Tuner Car Class.  
Three possible classes of cars can possibly show up (see below in the Opponents section). The numbers above assume only Class B is present. In some cases, Class A (especially the '07 Nissan GT-R) can be started low on the grid. This is so we get to watch some wall-to-wall action, but also assumes you've entered a car which can handle the madness.
Pure Class B and C grids can be hard to find. The second grid which shows up after starting the Playstation is one of these grids. This starts an Audi S3 on pole, '07 Nissan Fairlady on 2nd, and so on.      
*the current lower-end of the Tuner Car class was partially made with a Ford Focus RS, which is probably the sportiest of front-drives. I have yet to find another front-drive which can win all three races (Edit: the '06 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT can do it), so keep this in mind before dumping all sorts of money into that Honda. Adding power beyond what's recommended above can be tried, but I've found this rarely makes much difference.   
This trio of competitions is a good way to unwind after the grueling GT All Stars. The PD Cup offers some good racing with lots of surprises, so grab that bowl of popcorn, then make sure you add something to wash it down with.
As stated, this is a multi-class racing series, and we can pick and choose which class we'd like our imaginary drivers to race against. The doors are open too. Virtually any car in this game can possibly compete here, other than karts and Keis. We don't have to worry about making over 700 hp, we don't have to worry about nationality, or what drivetrain our car's got, etc. But make sure you focus on a particular car you'd like to see become a star, and make sure to drive it yourself, just so you know how B-spec drivers are going to handle what we've given them. 
That's really the limit here. Not getting a car into this series, but getting one in that can fairly compete, and this means something which handles itself well, and which our driver can pilot without excessive problems.     
The B-spec version of this race is a little different than the A-spec version. As usual, there are more laps, and the top-class cars won't always necessarily win, mostly because they tame their throttles when they get a strong, stretched-out lead. And here are the three classes: A, B, and C.  
> Class A autos will dominate. The Ford GT can make it from rear to front with ease, compared to other classes, while the Nissan might possibly get stalled behind traffic, and the Lotus falls somewhere in between these two. A race in which just one of these shows up is going to be more winnable than one which places two or all three of these on the grid, mostly because if more than one shows up, they will begin competing with one another on those front lines.  
'05 Ford GT                                412 hp           3,199 lbs.      7.76
'02 Lotus Esprit V8                     395 hp          3,041             7.70
'07 Nissan GT-R                         431 hp          3,835              9.90
Keep in mind that if Class A gets included, it is safest to only include the Nissan GT-R, downfield. If the car you enter is really competent, the Lotus can also be added downfield. Both of these tend to bottleneck at times, while the Ford can get by the entire grid, even if started in last.  
> Class B autos are middle-ground. They usually pull ahead (sometimes far ahead) if they start near Pole, but then their habit of conserving will quickly begin. Those toward the top of the list will be more successful at this than those at the bottom. 
'97 Mazda RX-7 Type RS-R       394 hp          2,821            7.16
'06 Honda S2000                       380 hp           2,755             7.25
'07 NIssan Fairlady Z Ver. S      395 hp          2,711            6.86
'90 Mazda RX-7 Infini III              370 hp         2,710            7.33
'99 Mitsu Lancer Evo VI GSR     391 hp          2,997          7.67
'05 Subaru Impreza WRX STi     396  hp          3,063          7.74
'04 BMW M3
> Class C? They get pwned every time, with rare exceptions. We can start the better members of this class (such as the Audi S3) on or near Pole if our car is not so confident, or we can place Class B up there for a tougher experience. In some cases, Class C will dominate Class B, but in general they won't exceed overall.     
'69 Chevrolet Camaro SS
'07 Lexus IS F                              415 hp          3,577          9.62
'03 Honda Integra Type R
'02 Audi S3
'03 Audi TT Coupe 3.2 Quattro
'05 Volkswagen Golf GTI                 
'02 Mercedes Benz SL 55 AMG  482 hp          4,309          9.93
'06 Aston Martin DB9 Coupe       422 hp          3,769          8.93
In general, most of the driving the competition does, it does well. Slides and mistakes do happen, but are rare.
Soft Sport Tires
Fixed or Height-adjustable Sport Suspension (pure sports car types can probably go stock). Some dismal cases from the Tuner Class can go with Full-custom parts.
Close-ratio gearing for many at Madrid and Trial Mountain. If gearing is too short for these tracks, factory gearing can be used, unless it's too awkward.
Single-plate clutch + either flywheel + carbon driveshaft (for rear or all-wheel drives).
Limited slip devices and variable center differentials are optional, and should be reserved for those which need some help in the traction / maneuverability department.
Brake Balancer (for those who need it).   
Cars Entered
'07 Mazda Roadster RS (lightweight / 2,050 pounds, Sports Car)
'04 BMW M3 (heavyweight / 3,500 pounds, Sports Car)
'02 Ford Focus RS (lightweight / 2,000 pounds, Sports Car)*
'97 Toyota Supra RZ (heavyweight / 3,500 pounds, Tuner)
* Note that some front-drives can win some races. Most of the time they lose, though. So far, I've found that only the Ford Focus RS and '06 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT can defeat all three.

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